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Le Rêve 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Equip:Shannon Twomey FA:Harrison Teuber/belayed by Aaron Heiser 11/16/15
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: harrison t on Nov 18, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: LR

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Description 

Le Rêve - 'The Dream' - Named and envisioned by Shannon Twomey.
A really great rock climb that throws a little bit of everything at you.

Start with some tricky face climbing to gain the crack. Really fun and pumpy climbing will bring you to a slightly runout and cryptic crux through the steep seam. (unless you're strong enough to place a small piece in the crux) The upper crack is great awkward flared climbing. Make a hard gray ghost placement at the top of the seam or run it out off a finger size cam through the slabby red-point crux. Save anything from a green c3-.4/5 offset to throw in behind the flake to protect the runout to the anchor.

  • Have an attentive belayer for this one, you aren't very far off the ground and you are well above your last piece when making the last moves of the crux. Definitely came down to the first bolt falling mid crux before the redpoint.

Location 

2 bolts to obvious crack
Listed as an open project in the busse/burr guidebook

Protection 

Gray c3- #2c4. Nuts/rps
2 bolts
2 bolt chain anchor


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By ShanJ2me
From: Rapid City, SD
Nov 18, 2015

Awesome Job Harrison!! A project I knew that could be done by the Next Generation!!
Thanks for keeping the name!!

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