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The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Le Nouveau Riche 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Steve Ilg, 1987
Page Views: 3,745
Submitted By: Andrew Wellman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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Erin, 4 1/2, 3'6", trying the start.

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  • Description 

    This is the [fifth] route from the right. This route is just to the right of Topless Etiquette. It is interesting, because it's only got three bolts in about 60-70 feet of climbing. I think this gives the route its character. It's a really slabby route that requires good balance and footwork, and it's quite runout. There is deckout potential if you fell off of easy moves. The three bolts are at the only three places you really need them, and not everywhere in between, just for the sake of having a bolt every four feet. Be confident at the grade and style of climbing.

    The crux comes at the second and third bolts, with sustained thin slab climbing up a right-facing corner.

    You can toprope this route after leading Topless Etiquette to the higher anchor. Place a directional runner on the top bolt if you do this.

    Protection 

    Three bolts plus small-to-medium gear. 2-bolt anchor.


    Photos of Le Nouveau Riche Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the bottom.
    Near the bottom.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Le Nouveau Riche.  Photo by Eva R.
    Le Nouveau Riche. Photo by Eva R.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Le Nouveau Riche.  Photo by Eva R.
    Leading Le Nouveau Riche. Photo by Eva R.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Eva just through the crux.
    Eva just through the crux.

    Comments on Le Nouveau Riche Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 17, 2015
    By Mark Ferguson
    Oct 20, 2001

    This route is not over-bolted like the rest of the routes at this area which makes it much more exciting. The bolts are at the places where they are needed. Someone went crazy with their drill at the Riviera (sport Park??). That aside, this route is worth climbing.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 5, 2002

    This is a great route. A few Aliens and a #1 Camalot make it quite reasonable for the competent leader. One of the best routes of its grade in the canyon. Footwork is key.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 28, 2003

    Fun route that definitely keeps you on your toes. Compared to TE, it looks way runout, but it is true the bolts are just where you need 'em. Leo's advice on gear is good, I managed to place 2 stoppers, 2 Aliens and the #1 Camalot (after the last bolt). The only place that is runout is after the first bolt, but it is surprisingly easy there.
    By ac
    Feb 28, 2005

    This route is as it should be. It is perfectly bolted.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 24, 2005

    In IMHO, the only 5.10 part was maybe one or two moves getting past the first bolt. After that smooth sailing. Still worth doing.
    By Aeon Aki
    Administrator
    Sep 21, 2006
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

    The slabby section after the second bolt felt nearly as difficult as Sea Breeze.
    By dbyte
    From: Carbondale, CO
    Jul 14, 2008
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

    Great old-school line w/ very thoughtful moves. I felt going direct between @ last 2 bolts to be the definite crux & 5.10d.
    By Andy Laakmann
    Site Landlord
    From: Bend, OR
    Oct 20, 2008
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    Best climb on the wall IMO. Bolts and gear are where you need them. Small TCUs will get you to the first bolt. I placed an RP off left before getting to the 2nd bolt, and I placed a #2 Camalot as a directional for my second above the last bolt. 10b felt correct.
    By Brian Barenberg
    Jul 7, 2010

    The thin moves from the 2nd to 3rd bolt definitely make this a great 10b. Top roping from the anchors gives these crux moves a bit of a fun pendulum swing potential.
    By Paul Donald Andrews
    From: Nederland, Co.
    Jun 18, 2011

    Not the best route at the Riv. The latest guidebook downgrades it to 10a. Glad to see the majority agree this climb is 10b/c, maybe even d at the final bolt. 10a moves at the first bolt, then runout, easy to the second. I got in a couple of small pieces to protect the step out to reach the second bolt, then it's sustained 5 or 6 moves up to and past 3rd bolt. Tough clip hanging off a right hand crimp. Runout to the anchors was no problem.
    By Kevin Wieczorek
    Jun 14, 2012

    I think it's worth noting that the protection bolts are showing some wear. All three had significant rust, and the first had a loose hanger. You can top rope this route after climbing the 5.8 route to the left using the third bolt as a directional.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 21, 2013
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

    Awesome route, one of the best at the Riviera! Be wary of the guidebook description though, "5.10a bolts and a few small pieces" leaves out quite a few details. The route is very run out in places, but this is over easy rock and makes the climb quite fun. The harder spots (more like 10b/c) are well protected. Why can't there be more like this in Boulder Canyon?? Had to laugh after looking over from the second bolt and seeing the guy on the next route over clipping bolt #6....

    Load up the small gear for this climb, I didn't use anything larger than a yellow Alien and found a small brassie to be oh so nice when otherwise facing a possible groundfall clipping the second bolt. Enjoy!!
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 17, 2013

    Climbed this route the other week. All bolts are very rusted (bolts, hangers are fine). I placed a single set of Aliens on the climb to mitigate the danger of a bolt failing. Hope someone replaces them sooner or later.
    By Tzilla Rapdrilla
    May 17, 2013

    How rusted is "very rusted"? Some pics would help. I've replaced quite a few bolts & hangers lately and although they were rusted on the surface, the underside of the wedge bolt nut, or Rawl bolt were just fine.
    By JulianG
    Oct 28, 2013

    A little surface rust, but the bolts are still good. The route is harder than the guidebook suggested. Maybe, the bolting and the grade 10a was right in 1987.
    By damonachey
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jun 14, 2014
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

    Wow, that 'second' bolt is a heck of a stretch if you're short. At 5'4", it's a very heady clip.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 16, 2015

    Dale Haas and I replaced the four bolts on this climb with 3/8" SS Powers Power-Bolts (AKA 5-piece). Most people only clip the first three bolts when doing this route. The fourth bolt is about 20 feet up and slightly left of the anchor shared by Chouette and Splash.

    The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 10, 2015
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

    5.10a for this route in the Boulder Canyon guide is presumably a misprint, as this is much harder other 10a routes in this area - there are several Pex Hill 5c moves between bolts 2 & 3!
    By Brad Schildt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 17, 2015
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I think the wide disparity on grading for this climb is due to how it is climbed. If you do not move left or right it is hard. The more you wander, the easier it gets.

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