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Le Marchand de Sable T 

Le Marchand de Sable 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 167
Submitted By: BradLipovsky on Sep 10, 2015

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Marchand de Sable corners about 3 pitches up.

Description 

An Envers classic.

Location 

Take the ladders to exit from the hut terrace. Climb up and right through a notch, then descend to the Trélaporte glacier. Traverse the glacier by staying. There are crevasses, so watch out.

Start at the lowest part of the face and hope that there's no 'schrund.
Star the route between two big corners (to the right) and a series of small roofs (to the left).

Protection 

Double set of cams, lots of quick draws, and glacier gear.


Photos of Le Marchand de Sable Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marchand de Sable crux face from hanging belay pri...
Marchand de Sable crux face from hanging belay pri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marchand de Sable, 1st or 2nd pitch slab traverse.
Marchand de Sable, 1st or 2nd pitch slab traverse.

Comments on Le Marchand de Sable Add Comment
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By kenr
Jun 21, 2017

The modern guidebook rating is French/Euro 6a+
which is "normally" equivalent to YDS 5.10b

But don't be surprised if you feel that you've run into a 5.10c/d slab sequence on the high "knobs" pitch.
. . (The guidebook author(s) spent days and days out on the slabs, so their perceptions of difficulty might be different from those of us with less-developed perceptual capability).

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