|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 410'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13 [details]|
|Season:||Apr - Nov|
|Submitted By:||Jay Harrison on Jan 14, 2013|
|Comments on Le Jeur de Bon Heures||Add Comment|
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By J Miles
From: Queensbury, NY
May 24, 2014
|What's the protection like on the route? It's listed as PG13 here, but shown as G on the adirondack rock website. If it is in fact PG13, how does the runout compare to Giucco Piano (5.8 PG13) on the slab below?|
By Jay Harrison
Jun 29, 2014
Sorry for the long delay - I don't check in on all the route comments regularly.
The pro for LJdBH is decent: the first pitch is dirty, so you may have to pull some grass clumps to access good pockets; think Tricams and narrow-headed cams. Second pitch has a small spruce tree to sling near the start. Crux move is getting past it; I believe a cam can be had in the corner crack, but you may have to trust the tree to do the move. There's another 5.3 move pulling onto the main slab, but that crack definitely protects it well. It's then an easy sub-fifth class runout to the spruce anchor shared by all the routes going up here. LJdBH utilizes a wide crack in the left side of the slab in order to provide gear (#4 C4 might help here, tho I use a #3) before moving over to rejoin the main run up this narrowing bit of slab. Again, easier but quite runout to the next anchor. The last pitch is a choice of easy, grassy ramps or running the rock gully right of Bella Vista's upper pitch, and diagonaling up right to avoid hard stuff. Gear can be had for most of it.
This route is on my tidy-up to-do list, but you know how that goes.
Finally, it's 5.3. Generally speaking, there's gear wherever the going gets anything resembling tough. Giucco Piano, at 5.8, has much harder friction moves, which tend to make people more nervous. There are no bolts on LJdBH; there isn't a need. And you can generally escape the slab almost anywhere along LJdBH, by traversing climber's left to trees or the gully.