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Le Dôme

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Granuleuse T 
L'Onglée T 
Tâche Blanche T 
Voie d'évitement T 
Voie de Rappel T 
Wet Dreams T 

Le Dôme Rock Climbing 


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Location: 47.6854, -70.64055 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luc on Apr 15, 2008
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Ann Burns on Mt Ours with Le Dome behind.

Description 

The Dôme being just outside the SEPAQ, you are not required to purchase a day permit to climb it but should pay the daily fee to La Traversé de Charlevoix who maintains the trails.
All routes require trad gear and are mostly multi-pitch up to 200m long, not all belays are bolted such as L'Onglée which leaves the climber the choice of path and belay locations.
The left and center side of the cliff is mostly a slab affair while the right end (les Toits) has quite a few spicy routes.

Generally a small set of nuts,a set of tricams (or two) from N0.25(black) to N2(blue), double cams to 0.4 to 1", single C3 #0 to #2, single 2" & 3" will give you more than enough choice.

Bring double 60m ropes, many belay/raps are a stretch using two 50m ropes.
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Le Dôme est juste à l'extérieur de la SEPAQ alors il n'est pas nécessaire d'y payer l'accès mais le sentier est aménagé par La Traversé de Charlevoix qui demande un droit journalier.
Toutes les voies sont traditionelles ou mixtes, multi-longueurs et jusqu'à 200m de long et les relais ne sont pas tous équipés comme L'Onglée qui laisse le choix au leader la ligne et les relais.
La gauche et le centre du Dôme se caractérise par des voies dalleuses tandis qu'à la droite (les toits) à plusieurs voies sur lesquelles se faire les dents.

Généralement un petit set de coinceurs, un set (ou deux) de tricams du 0.25(noir) au 2(bleu), mécaniques en double de 0.4 à 1", C3 en simple de #0 à #2, simple 2" & 3" vous donnera pas mal de choix.

Amenez vos cordes doubles! ou grimpez avec deux cordes de 60m chaques car plusieurs relais et rappels sont très étirés avec des 50m...

Guidebooks:
Le Guide Québécois de l'Escalade par Yannick Girard and Stéphane Plamondon

Show up at the Trad Pow Wow and get the new "work in progress" topo.

Getting There 

Look for a parking lot on the right side of the road passed the SEPAQ welcome centre Mont-du-Lac-des-Cignes.
Park and head up the trail in the centre of the lot towards the Eudore hut then take a left towards the Dome hut which are both maintained by Traversée de Charlevoix, you'll find the trail heading to the cliff after you've passed the back of the hut.
If I remember well, the trail lands you in the middle of the centre section around the start of Diagonale.

The leftmost routes, L'Initiation and Renaissance, have their own trail from the road a few meters passed the parking lot and require walking off climbers left



Routes, left to right 

Gauche
L'Initiation, 5.4 165m
La Renaissance, 5.4 200m
Bioinorgangue, 5.6 150m
Candide, 5.10 150m
(Jambore 1985, 5.9 200m)
La Moustique, 5.6 200m
Tour de contrôle, 5.5 215m
Broncos, 5.9 165m
Passerelle, 5.8 165m
Rocky, 5.9 165m
Traction avant, 5.9 165m

Centre
Isabel, 5.5 165m
(Entre les deux, 5.5 165m)
Granuleuse, 5.6 200m
L'Onglée, 5.7 200m
La Diagonale, 5.3 160m
Voie de Rappel, 5.9 120m
Tache blanche, 5.10 200m
Fun Noir, 5.11a 25m
Voie d'évitement, 5.7 200m
Au bouleau mon homme, 5.8+ 25m
Jeu de gear, 5.10a 25m
Snowmobile, 5.8 200m
Patinoire, 5.7 165m

Marée Montante, 5.9 15m
Ti-Coune, 5.3 20m
Gaston Boston, 5.7 40m
Perdu dans l'espace, 5.10b 40m
Nouvelle Vague, 5.11d 60m
Raz de marée, 5.12b 15m
Venus, 5.8 20m

Day Dream, 5.7 175m
Wet Dreams, 5.7 175m
Le Diédral, 5.7 175m
(Croûtons à l'ail, 5.7 150m)
Point G, 5.10b 35m
Chapiteau, 5.9 35m
Choupette, 5.6 134m
Frimousse, 5.6 134m
Torteuils Ninja, 5.10d 150m
La Petite école, 5.4 15m
Terrasse à Lino, 5.7 15m
5 à 7, 5.6 35m

Les Toits

Jeux sans frontière, 5.11d 25m
Gtruyère, 5.9+ 22m
Air voyageur, 5.11d 23m
Dérobade, 5.7 20m
Zone Z, 5.7 20m
Araignée du soir, espoir, 5.9 20m
La Vache Folle, 5.9 28m
King Can, 5.10b 23m
Éclipse, 5.10b 28m
Le Baiser de l'Homme Araignée, 5.12a 22m
Projet, (5.13+) 22m
Projet, (5.13+) 23m
Astral, 5.12bc 23m
Divergence, 5.11c 20m
Yahaka, 5.10d 20m / 5.11c 30m
Le Paradoxe des formes, 5.11d 20m
La Voie lactée, 5.12c 23m
Libre à toi, 5.12a 18m
Vie avenir, 5.10a 15m
Little Monkey Banana, 5.8 15m

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.5 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Le Dôme

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Le Dôme:
Granuleuse   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Le Dôme

Featured Route For Le Dôme
Rock Climbing Photo: Wet Dreams, 5.9, Pitch 1

Wet Dreams 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  North America : Canada : ... : Le Dôme
Sweet crack trending left, the start is a bit tricky but the route is brilliant and well protected.P1 5.7, 50mhead to the diagonal finger/hand crack, belay at a ledge.P2 5.9, 55mHead up the ledge above, traverse left and meetup with the left leaning diagonal crack system.you have a pin/fixed nut below the roof if you feel like having an intermediate belay (add more gear and it's 5.7 up to there).Follow the left facing corner up to the roof, pull through it.keep heading up and cross...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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