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30 - The Rostrum
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Faith T 
Kauk-kulator T 
Le Bachar T 
North Face, The T 
Notch Route, The T 
Static Cling T 
Unsorted Routes:

Le Bachar 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery (1982)
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Bryan G on Aug 14, 2016

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The corner. Photo by Andrew

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As you approach the base of the North Face, this will be the obvious corner just to the right of the first rappel. Lots of people have probably looked at it, but judging from the lichen, no one has climbed it in several years. Rap in to a sloping ledge with a bolted anchor at the base of the corner, then lead back out. You could also set some directionals and mini-traxion it if you wanted.

Starts with some good finger locks, then becomes really shallow and flared. Requires some "laybacking" as the name suggests. Placing pro is tricky, hard to see, and super strenuous. After pulling over onto a ledge, continue up the corner and gully on rock that is carpeted with lichen. Mantel out left at the very end to regain the ledge at the top of the rappels.

I ran a wire brush down the main corner crack, but it still needs a lot of cleaning. Most Bachar FA's have gotten their ratings upgraded in guidebooks over the years. This is one of those obscure routes, like Moongerms, which has had few repeats and still retains the "old-school" rating (5.11b in the Reid Guide). For what it's worth, this is much harder than the Kaukulator, Blind Faith, pitch 4 of N Face, Uprising, and probably even harder than the Alien Roof.

Protection 

Pro to 3", mainly tips and tight fingers. Offset cams are very useful.


Photos of Le Bachar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Flared jams or sloper lieback, your choice.  Photo...
Flared jams or sloper lieback, your choice. Photo...

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