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Whiskey Peak - East
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Ballantine Blast T 
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Microbrew T 
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Shaken, Not Stirred T 

Lazy Buttress 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Matt McMackin, Nanouk Borche, Joe and Betsy Herbst, 10/73
Page Views: 2,019
Submitted By: john campbell on Apr 9, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: A: Microbrew; B: Schaeffer's Delight; C: Lazy Butt...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin in the S-shaped crack immediately above the point where the approach trail comes up to the base of the wall. Work your way up a chimney. Pull through 2 roof sections. When you get to the 3rd roof section, you can traverse left 10ft below the roof as I did, or climb right up to it and traverse left at that point, or you could pull the roof but it is intimidating. Easy climbing to the anchors after that. I was able to get a good deal of gear in on this route, but the 3rd roof section is scary and the pro is not as good in this section. Thought it was harder than Schaeffer's.

The second pitch goes up and right around a small corner, then up a very long easy slab to a good belay ledge. The third pitch moves left to a 5.6 overhang. Easy climbing takes you to the large platform (called Lovers' Ledge) on the crest of the buttress. A 4th pitch is possible up the headwall above, but danger from loose rock minimizes its appeal.

To descend, cross to the far side of the brushy gully behind Lovers' Ledge, then go up for 50 yards to the standard Whiskey Peak descent gully.

Protection 

Standard Rack. Common anchor with Schaeffers Delight.


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By Jon P
From: Duluth, MN
Nov 16, 2011

Just adding my 2 cents to the info above.

This really isn't a bad route. We ended up climbing it because Frogland was super busy and we didn't feel like waiting around all day.

Pitch 1 (5.8+ PG13): Above info is accurate. Placements are not very good here and the rating feels more like 5.8+. Belay from anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.6R): Climb up and righ to gain the big crack. Good placements for half the route in the crack to the left. Then the route goes out on to the face once it become impossible to follow the crack any longer. Climbing is very easy and low angle but placements are virtually non-existent for 40 feet or so. Belay from anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.6): Up and left around the roof. Then up and angle left on the face. Up onto the big white ledge (lovers ledge). No anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.7 PG13): Up the headwall using the crack on the right. I say it's PG13 because of the loose and brittle rock mentioned above but this is actually a fun little section and not long. There is a good bolt to clip right before the "crux" which is a straight forward roof move. Then it's just run out to the big ledge. Belay from this ledge or rope drag will be terrible.

Scramble left and up to the 'summit' Keep looking left as you will be dropping down into the Gully Decent (no rappel needed). Once in the gully head across to the far side of the gully and look for the big carin which marks the very obvious and highly used trail going down. No rappels needed.
By Sue B
From: Henderson, NV
Apr 7, 2013

If you choose to pull the roofs on Pitch 1 it's more like 5.8 climbing. Pitch 4 is easy climbing but very fragile rock--left leaning crack seemed to be less fragile. Fun route, but not a good choice for beginners.
By Ben Townsend
Apr 9, 2015

The first pitch can be quite well protected, though some of the placements are thoughtful --Tricams help. A few extra long slings might help minimize the rope drag. The 5.6 grade seemed realistic to me, but it would certainly be easy to make it harder by missing key opportunities to stem or chimney.
By atomup
Mar 20, 2017

Pitch one roofs def feel 5.8. The runout on pitch 2 is beyond mellow. You can easily find a couple small nuts, & sling a huge chicken head. Pitch 3 is one move then class 4/5, pitch 4 is a choss pile. Rap off the station atop of P2. If you wana summit Schafers is much more enjoyable to the top!

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