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Lazy Bum 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Eric Beck and Steve Williams, 1971. FFA: Chris Falkenstein and pals, 1972
Page Views: 4,096
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Oct 26, 2006

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placing gray TCU

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Sunnyside bench sports two 5.10 finger cracks, one just to the left of Jamcrack called Lazy Bum (5.10D) and the other just to the left of this called Bummer (5.10C).

Both cracks share the same first 20 feet, which is a bouldery 5.10b finger crack / face. Going slightly left from here puts you on Bummer 10C, and going right puts you on Lazy Bum 10D.

Both of these climbs are excellent, protect well (micro gear required), and perfect for tuning your thin crack technique. Short and hard.


Micro nuts essential.

Photos of Lazy Bum Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hayes gathering the mustard to get to the one rest...
Hayes gathering the mustard to get to the one rest...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter heading up into the business on Lazy Bum, 19...
Peter heading up into the business on Lazy Bum, 19...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Hayes leading Lazy Bum when it still had the...
Peter Hayes leading Lazy Bum when it still had the...
Rock Climbing Photo: great thin crack
great thin crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Elli getting into the business on Lazy Bum.
Elli getting into the business on Lazy Bum.
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter on the final moves of the crux layback...198...
Peter on the final moves of the crux layback...198...

Comments on Lazy Bum Add Comment
Show which comments
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Don't need micronuts (standard set down to #4 BD works fine) on Lazy Bum. Two blue aliens are nice (one at the bottom starting crack, then one below the crux). Rest at the good stance before the crux, then commit and fire it- forget trying to place gear in the crux or you'll be flying off it anyway. Gear is bomber the entire way.

Anyone climbed the 2nd pitch?
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 23, 2010

Is the second pitch right of Jamcrack's second pitch? If so, yes, I have climbed it. It is a 5.10a that is very devious, techie thin crack/face climb with a penchant for offset cams. For some reason, it was a really hard climb for me and I actually found the first pitch easier. Maybe that was just a bad day though.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Mar 23, 2010

Yes, the second pitches of Jam Crack and Lazy Bum crossover at the ledge. Lazy Bum's second pitch felt .10a to me. I could see how one could feel it is harder than that though as the pro is more difficult to place. Offset stoppers work well and I would suggest ending at the chains as opposed to climbing into the tree. Just a cleaner, better way to end the route in my opinion.

If you are just breaking into the grade then split Bummer and Lazy Bum into two pitches. But if you are comfortable on 5.10's then link them. The linkups of these two climbs makes a return to this popular and crowded spot worth while.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Jan 25, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

2nd pitch can be TRed from the 2nd pitch Jamcrack anchor and is a fun climb. A directional is recommended. We used the hanging flake just to the right of Lazy Bum.
By Will Wilson
From: Morganton, nc
Oct 27, 2011

I love this route!!
By mark felber
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Feb 15, 2015

FA was done by Eric Beck and Steve Williams, in 1971. FFA was done by Chris Falkenstein, in 1972.
By dnaiscool
Mar 31, 2015

The '82 Meyers Guide calls the second pitch .10d, and that's the info I was given when I did it in '78. I thought that was spot on. The thing was cranky, with pro needing to be right where your fingers were. I climbed into the crux, and backed off to rethink my strategy, which ended up being to climb above the protection points and set gear low, clip and move out. I only had a hand full of thin wired nuts, but it did protect...after a fight. ".10a"...No Way, at least not on lead. I never did lead it again, so maybe the sticky rubber and new gear makes it a bit easier, but no THAT much easier...just sayin'...
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Feb 17, 2016

You can do a direct finish to the first pitch. Rather than heading left at the top of the crack you can climb straight up to the ledge(5.11b face or so), but it is unprotected.
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Jan 2, 2017

There is a perfect #5 RP slot at the top of the crack before the face moves left (sometimes leaves clog the last slot) for excellent pro at the top with minimal run out. These days you can get a thin cam at the rest before the crux, but it takes a #5 RP too there to back it up.

The whole crux goes as face climbing to the right of the crack that is straight forward if you are calm on your feet and use the edge of the crack.

Classic Yosemite test piece thin crack below with lots of great stopper placements and locker finger jams.

2nd pitch solid 5.10c and good climbing. Done rarely though so it may need a nut tool cleaning before climbing it.

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