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Laying Down On The Job 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Evan Wisheropp
New Route: Yes
Season: Any (shaded all year)
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 6, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: birds obviously ticked this first. chris on LDOTJ.

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Description 

Across the road from Hamburger Crack is a wide chimney capped by a roof. From deep down inside the northwest end of the chimney, climb up a downward flaring chimney, past a #3 placement and some stemming with the right wall. Move eastward via stemming, but you'll need to hop into the horizontal crack as soon as it opens up. Slither through the horizontal squeeze traverse out towards a 5' roof. The gear anchor is on the north side, so you might as well go full value and finish with the roof mantle! The mantle is incredible; safe but very airy feeling, don't miss it by stepping off left.

Location 

Go left (north) around the rock go a short 4th class downclimb (going south) into a little cave. The route starts just a few feet from the downclimb.

Protection 

Cams from .2-5" (some doubles are nessesarry), scout your gear from across the crack
A 6-7" piece is comforting, but not nessesary.


Photos of Laying Down On The Job Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling over the lip!
Pulling over the lip!
Rock Climbing Photo: Such a fun mantle finish. Don't miss out on it...
Such a fun mantle finish. Don't miss out on it...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route in its entirety from down in the cave.
The route in its entirety from down in the cave.
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself "Laying Down On The Job" in the H...
Myself "Laying Down On The Job" in the H...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route is inside this boulder. Walk around the ...
The route is inside this boulder. Walk around the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Laying Down On The Job 5.10+
Laying Down On The Job 5.10+

Comments on Laying Down On The Job Add Comment
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By Evan Wisheropp
Jun 7, 2016

The whole route was loaded up with hundreds of pounds of loose rock/blocks/sand that had to be cleared out of the way on the onsight FA. I spent a lot of time trying to get it nice and cleaned up, but there is still a little bit of dirt on the belly crawl. A quick ten minutes with a bathtub brush would get it spotless though. You could start up on the ledge near the traverse, but there isn't anywhere to anchor your belayer, might as well add the fun/safety and start down below.

The route was a ton of fun, and very unique. Every part was good and I highly recommend it!
By amockalypsenow
From: San Diego
Apr 20, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

bring a rag, broom and dustpan unless you don't care about getting a bit dirty/poopy. Also semi decent mantle technique would be nice to have before you flail on this.
By Evan Wisheropp
Apr 21, 2017

No kidding! I'm hoping I can make it back there soon-ish so I can give that pod a good cleaning. It looks like your layback was a clever way around the dusty crawl. Ps, yeah, that is a wild mantle isn't it?! Kinda hard. Please feel free to give it a consensus grade.
By amockalypsenow
From: San Diego
May 9, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Personally, I stayed in the crack the whole time. No lay-back for me.

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