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1. End Crags
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's Blessing T,TR 
End Route TR 
Layback T,TR 
Pine Tree T 
Tom’s Dilemma T 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 32'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,755
Submitted By: Ben Natusch on Apr 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Finishing up Layback. Photo by Ethan Phelps.


Layback follows the crack in the short and steep open book towards the left end of the End Crags.


This climb is located in the open book towards the left end of the End Crags. Walk off to the left.


G/PG - protects well, carry a standard rack. There are trees at the top for anchors.

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By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Oct 6, 2009

I would recommend some larger size cams for protection on this route. I placed a #2 Black Diamond cam early on and wished I had more of the same size. I made do with my #1 and #3, but I couldn't really find good placements for smaller gear.
By Read Januskiewiecz
From: New England
Jun 23, 2011

So much fun if this route is dry, you have no excuse not to climb it. Only used #3 and #2 Camalots in that order.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 2, 2013

If only this went on for 1000 more feet....
By J Meagher
Apr 5, 2014

Is there a chance this would be dry tomorrow after all the rain we've been having?
By Russ Keane
Jul 7, 2014

To lead this, you will want a VERY large piece at the bottom. It's almost an off-width down low. I had to downclimb and bail on my lead because I didn't have anything big. I don't even know if a #4 cam would work.
By Russ Keane
Aug 18, 2014

So a #4 cam, or even better, a hex/nut of that same size, protects the bottom. Then at the crux (second piece) you can work in a slightly smaller cam or passive.

I like this climb. It's awkward but I would call it a 5.5. I personally do not think this is harder than Tom's Dilemna.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Nov 5, 2016

I don't understand that comment about needing a big piece at all.... Perfectly good #1, #2, and #3 cam placements down low. The climb is perfectly G-rated with a standard rack up to a #3 cam.
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jan 12, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

My recollection is the FA of this route, perhaps as a TR, was by members of the (then) Lowell Tech (now U Mass Lowell) outing club on the same day as "Tom's Dilemma" was led, circa 1966-67 or so.

BTW - I'm not sure a "Standard Rack" does include a #3 Camalot. I've usually considered a "Std Rack" to 'top out' at a #2, but agree it's a marginal "call". Maybe #3's are standard. I don't think we had anything larger than a 2" bong in '66 - '67, although the larger sizes had come out in the "Valley".

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