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J Wall (aka L Face)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ladder Line TR 
Layback T,TR 
Lurch TR 
Transfusion (or Teepee Left Hand Finish?) TR 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: early 1900s
Page Views: 3,339
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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This is a really fun line on the elegant L Face. It is the obvious line on the just begs to be climbed. So much so that sometimes you just forget to put on your climbing shoes and you dance up.

Take the left-facing, wide, layback crack. You may be able to jam it, but it seemed less facile. Fire up for 3/4 the way. Get a great rest. Fire up and left for the top.


This is the obvious line on the face that begs to be climbed via laybacking.


This can be led with wide gear with a PG-13 bit at the top or a TR for better security.

Photos of Layback Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of the layback move.
The top of the layback move.
Rock Climbing Photo: 2010-08-13 Justin climbing up.
2010-08-13 Justin climbing up.

Comments on Layback Add Comment
Show which comments
By Couloirman Schmiddy
From: Providence, RI
Aug 18, 2009

Great climb. The graffiti is quite slippery, and there aren't many real footholds, but there are enough. Old school 5.6 for sure. Loose block after you exit the layback section just to climber's left, so don't knock it on your belayer!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 18, 2010

Try the arete to the right Quarries, 10.
By sunder
From: Alsip, Il
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Super fun climb. Tradable but with a 10-15' run out at the topout.
By john cronin
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climb. Learned to layback on this route. Base was super super slick. Climbed on May 2011 while taking a trad anchor class. Set up anchors in a crack at the top of the climb using tri Cams and nuts.

Was dropped by my belay parter. You know who you are. : )

But what is an 8 foot fall between friends.
By Jesse Laniak
From: Somerville MA
Apr 14, 2015

Great route. I would recommend it for beginning trad leaders (like myself). We top roped it a few times before we felt confident enough with the moves and keeping our heads cool during the 10-15 ft run out at the end. For experienced trad leaders its probably a non issue - definitely spices the route up a bit :)

We protected the runout with a really sketchy nut placement in a very shallow v shaped constriction (#12 or #13 BD nut). Not necessary but fun anyways :)
By Brian O'Leary
From: Scituate, Ma
Nov 29, 2015

Does anyone know who bolted a block on the ground? I would assume it is for a ground anchor.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Apr 18, 2017

This ain't 5.6 - sorry - especially given how slick it is with the paint at the bottom. It is fun and worth leading along with the other 3 leadable routes around the corner. The top section can be protected with small gear behind a flake - it's not great, but the climbing is easy up top. NOT a great first trad lead, as a fall at the top would land you on the large ledge below!

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