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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,216
Submitted By: shad O'Neel on Aug 13, 2004

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Perhaps the easiest way to find this route is to wander off the backside and around to the right after getting used to the crag on blockbuster. You will pass a 5.10 climb called splitter that is fairly obvious. As you come around the spur a face much cleaner looking than the main area comes into view. You can see this face on the hike in from the valley after crossing the pass. If coming from the blockbuster area, wander right, further than you probably think you should. Layback starts with the clean, maybe the cleanest, looking crack in the middle of this face. The climb was rated 5.7 in the guidebook, but its a bit harder (i.e. harder than star wars). Climb 30' or so of nice jamming, or laybacking if you are brave enough to place gear this way, to reach a stance. From here we continued up to the right (although its unclear if this is what the FA party did, they may have blazed through a garden and up cracks on the left?) though slighlty vegetated corners. Three cracks ahead, we chose the one on the right, and had to belay as the wide gear was stuffed in the crack below. Its definitely not too long to run as one pitch. The upper crack was interesting, reminiscent of veedawoo. Crank up and belay from a tree, from which you can rap 100' to the ground.


A few bigger pieces are needed, up to #4 camalot.

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