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3. The Big Wall
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Layback Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Loran Smith 1979
Page Views: 1,843
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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The no hands rest!

Description 

The obvious corner system in the middle of the cliff.
P1: Climb the face with flakes and horizontals to a tree ledge below the big roof with a three pin anchor in a left facing corner. 55’
P2: Climb up under the roof and traverse left making moves into the corner. Follow the crack up the corner until the corner ends. Move right onto a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 50’
P3: Climb straight up off the anchor and pull the crux overlap with a seam running up the face (5.10). The crux can be avoided by traversing right around the overlap (original finish, 5.8). Follow the bigger holds to the top. Walk off or rap from trees. 55’


Location 

The obvious mega corner in the center of the cliff

Protection 

Bring A rack to #3 or 4


Photos of Layback Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof traverse
The roof traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan Garlough on Layback Route. The chimney ca...
Jonathan Garlough on Layback Route. The chimney ca...

Comments on Layback Route Add Comment
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By Jason Denver
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The p3, 5.10 finish is superb if you can figure out the move. It took me a long time, but once i went for it, it all happpend so smooth. Personally I'd recommend doing the arete up to the start of this for one of the best link-ups on the cliff.

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