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Layback and Relax 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Mitchell Allen, Evan Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Mitchell Allen on Mar 21, 2012

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Vernal Free-solo circuit. Layback and Relax.


Layback and mantle through an odd 5.8 start (the only move on the route above 5.5-5.6) to gain lower angled terrain. Follow the thin crack/flake for 10 ft to a straight-in hand crack angling up and left. Follow this 5.5 crack up through the slot to belay. Walk off to the south towards Brush Creek.


This route is the obvious low-angle ramp with a crack in it as seen from the road.


Bottom belay stance is on steep and soft clay, protect belayer with #3-4 camalots. Upper belay takes #1-3.5 camalots or larger nuts/hexes. For route: a few smaller nuts and a few handsize or smaller cams.

Photos of Layback and Relax Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top.  Hwy 191 in the upper right-han...
BETA PHOTO: View from the top. Hwy 191 in the upper right-han...
Rock Climbing Photo: Layback start.  The only 5.8 move is laying back a...
BETA PHOTO: Layback start. The only 5.8 move is laying back a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay Crack on the top.
BETA PHOTO: Belay Crack on the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack as seen from the road.
BETA PHOTO: Crack as seen from the road.

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By Steve Fuller
Jul 25, 2014

I've been in Vernal for work all summer and been looking for some decent rock. Fun, easy route, set it up with a friend yesterday, just walked up the back and made a really poor top rope anchor with a few slings over the right rock from the top-out and a backup hooked up to some sagebrush behind it (not recommended). The chinle is dirty, but fun to climb on. The start's a bit bouldery, but the rest is just a walk in the park. I started way right of the crack and traversed over, didn't understand the mantle as provided in the description.
By Mitchell Allen
From: Little Rock, Arkansas
Oct 9, 2014

Hey Steve,

I had a few friends that also started way right on the slabby stuff. I think it knocks this down to about a 5.5 all the way around. The mantle I described was basically laying back on the bottom crack, getting high feet on the wall underneath the crack, and then working up that lieback until you can get a right foot out on top of the slab and reach higher into the thin crack. Hope this helps!


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