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Lay of the Land 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,473
Submitted By: Andrew Cheung on May 25, 2006  with updates from Brad Leneis

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Lay of the Land 12a


A hidden gem. Scramble up the dirty gully left of Sweet and Sticky and climb the moderate arete past a few bolts. Finagle a tricky section, then cruise through aesthetic moves past several bolts to a decent ledge. Take a few breaths here before the difficulties commence. Working both sides of the arete, boulder up to a perch on the corner, then crank up and right to a stance under a little roof. Pause to ponder your escape; then slap and squeeze back left on terrible feet. A looming, textured bulge guards the anchors -- race past it to the top, fighting the ever-mounting temptation to grab the chains.

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By Carney
From: Seattle
Sep 14, 2006

Fun arete climbing which rapidly increases in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12 while touching on many of the grades in between. The 5.7 section has zero bolts and is ~20ft run out.
By Rad Roberts
Apr 15, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great exposure, rock, and moves. Note that there is a long gap (20ft or so) between the second and third bolts. You can mitigate this by looping a stopper wire on a hangerless bolt on the right face, or just run it out on easy ground.
By Frank Sosa
From: Washington
May 13, 2010

I climbed this up to the crux moves on Rad's TR... Really enjoyable movements. Gotta be one of the coolest routes around. Good job on the stylish redpoint Rad. And yes- do bring a stopper so you can sinch it on the bolt in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. You'll definetly want that. Can I give it 4 stars without sending?
By Eric Hirst
Jul 4, 2015

A bolt or two was added recently to eliminate the runout section, with permission from the first ascensionist.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 4, 2015

Eric, or somebody, can you send in some description for this route, so I can add it? Just click on "Improve this page" and I'll get the info you add.
By gregman
Oct 6, 2015

The 'top-out' is truly the crux on this climb! A lot of fun with an unusually consistent increase in difficulty as you ascend. Worth taking a detour from World Wall, especially if it's crowded! It's very well protected (at least now), needing 11 draws to reach the anchor. I would recommend unclipping the third to last bolt (on the right face of the arrete) or put a long draw on it, otherwise the gate will be pulled into the edge and contribute to drag for the last 2 bolts/anchor. There's also a fat locking carabiner connecting the two anchor chains that has been useful for lowering, it is not worn at all.
By Julian Barnett
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 15, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Been wanting to check this out for a few years now. Finally did and sent yesterday 3rd go. Freaking awesome fun climbing! Cruiser jug climbing until about half way, then it turns up. With the last several moves being the crux. Top out feels desperate especially in 85 degree heat :-/

I echo gregman's sentiments about the 3rd to last bolt. It's very close to the arete and the biner pulls into the side and just gets mashed up along the spine as you work your way around to the left. If you can, do what gregman mentioned or skip this bolt entirely. This bolt should really be on the left side of the arete.

Like Eric mentioned, the first half was retrofitted with additional bolts, but the upper bolt hangars are pretty loose and rattly. I think they just need to be tightened/wrenched down. Hopefully the bolts themselves are still OK (they look OK) and I took some small falls on them...

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