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A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 
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Baby Tapir T,S 
Below Lissen T 
Bobcat Cringe T 
Bowling to Biscuits T 
He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga) T 
House of the 7th Bobcat T 
Law and Order T 
Peanuts To Serve You T 
Purple Kool-Aid T 
Rice Krispies T 
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Velvet Pedestal, The T 
You can cool Jack Robinson T 

Law and Order 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Kelley & Matt Arksey
Page Views: 3,320
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Apr 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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some of the rock was still wet, early season. But ...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Long corner system to the right of Rice Krispies and Spit.

Pitch 1 starts with face climbing on large holds (~20', and in need of cleaning as of 4/2012). Then one enters an incut, bolt-protected, right-leaning corner (~9+/10a). See the bottom red arrow in the picture. About 30' up the corner, the corner system splits into two. The original route went up the shallower left corner (~5.9) (next red arrow), which then traversed back into the right corner at a bolt (5.10) (see 3rd red arrow in photo). But staying in the right corner (green arrow) gives fun 5.9+ climbing, a mixture of face-climbing and thin jams. Where the two variations merge, the climbing goes up a slot with excellent pinch-grips on the rib (~5.8+). The pitch ends on the top of the pedestal, and has 3 bolts with chains.

Pitch 2 goes up the next corner on the left. It looks like a great corner, but as of July 10, 2012, it is a bit dirty and hard to protect. But you can instead do the pitch to the right, "A Ship Called Black Rock". See the separate description for this pitch.

The first pitch anchor is about 20' right of that for A group of mysteries of frenchwoman. With a short belay, one can move the anchor to toprope one or the other. To rap off with one rope, you might need to go to the Frenchwoman anchor and rap to the strange boar anchor. From the strange boar anchor, you can rap to the ground with one 60-m rope.


On the Lookout Point trail, continue about 40 feet past Baby tapir, Strange boar, and Rice krispies.


Nut and cams to 2", 5-6 quickdraws for bolts.

If you stay to the right (the easier way), you clip 5 bolts at the bottom, and have the option of clipping 2 more up higher, though one is an old 1/4" next to a crack. If you go left, for the harder variation, you will clip one other bolt at the crux.

Photos of Law and Order Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: left variation. so sweet.
left variation. so sweet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh climbing into the flare groove at the top of ...
Josh climbing into the flare groove at the top of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The perfect layback section of Law and Order. (The...
BETA PHOTO: The perfect layback section of Law and Order. (The...
Rock Climbing Photo: The red line and arrows show the original route (1...
BETA PHOTO: The red line and arrows show the original route (1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh climbing through the crux
Josh climbing through the crux

Comments on Law and Order Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2017
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

1- 0 metolius
2- .3 BD cam
1- .4 BD
1- .5 BD
1- 1 BD
1- #6 BD nut

I sling all the pro on two foot slings and clip six bolts with draws . The fifth bolt I use a double runner . Some might think the crux is after the fifth bolt.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Green variation bass offset, though bolt would be perfect! Very fun route
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great route. I had eyed it for a while, but was intimidated by the old books description. It is cleaner now, and the run-out has been bolted. At the Y in the road I went right. Lots of brambles, but good climbing. Small cams, brass nut, and then happy to clip the new bolt for the left variation. Above the climbing gets easier. I cleaned out the upper seam and found good blue alien placements.
There is a single bolt above and left of the anchor that is in line with a single rope rap to another good rap anchor of Mysterious French Woman.
By derekpearson Pearson
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yes the way I set it up is , when you thread the bolt also use the fallen tree . It should have another bolt but I didn't have one and the tree is perfect but not obvious because you are standing on it. originally I only used the tree or double rope rap from p1 law and order's finish.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I gave this route a scrub. the thin cracks protect the plants from being completely removed, would need Roundup. I removed much vegetation and dirt from the start, but ran out of time so sorry for dirty start, still better then it was.
There is a good horizontal crack before you pull up onto the ledge at the start before the bolt, .75, #1 or #2 camalot.
Removed two biners from the bolts, not sure if someone started up it thinking it all bolts and bailed, or if encountered too much plants, or rapped from top down route only to realize the rope did not reach the ground?
By Scott Goodwin
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 28, 2014

Overall, a great climb. Bottom is dirty as hell, and getting to the first bolt may be a bit scary, depending on how you're feeling. It's not terribly hard, but when you mantle up after the left traverse in the beginning, a fall would be really nasty.
The left variation is stellar. So much fun! My fat fingers were just able to slip under the finger crack to give me a beautiful lie back the whole way up.
I was able to rap down to the ledge about 10' below the first bolt on a 70m rope, and then scramble down the rest of the way. Definitely tie knots on the ends of your rope if you do this, cause you won't get all the way to the bottom.
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I like to protect traverse with a .3 or .4 BD cam. Someone did some cleaning at the start its still dirty but it was worse a year ago. I did so much digging on the top and bottom before I placed the bolts. The lay back section was as is. Fun climb totally worth doing.
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I just noticed Geoff your the one that cleaned at the start thanks!
By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Thanks Geoff! What a great route to add to the collection. I was shocked however to not find rap bolts at the end(35m) before the groove though. We had hoped to rap and end the day there, but did Black Rock and went to the top instead. O well
Rock Climbing Photo: left variation
left variation
By derekpearson Pearson
Jun 2, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Hi Wayne, I almost did put one there. The groove is so short I decided to put the anchor at the top. I could add one there though.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 2, 2015

The anchor at the top of the groove, where the big ledge is, seems much more natural for the anchor. So, I prefer the anchor where it is now.

Also, the current anchor works well for the "Anarchy and Chaos" variation, which goes left of the groove.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Apr 30, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought I would add this comment after hearing a couple stories from people climbing this route (they did the right hand variation because they thought it was easier and got spooked/and or fell). I've done both variations:

The "Left hand variation" protects the best, and is a fun layback ending in a 1- bolt traverse back to the right.

The "right hand variation" uses small pro (brass offset), maybe pg13 and graded maybe 5.9 and a little dirty, could use a bolt, maybe.

I like the left variation the best! The only move on the left hand variation that may feel spooky is a couple face moves getting to the layback, but maybe the face moves are 5.8. The layback is maybe 10a/5.9 depending where you climb and protects something like this: smaller gear (green or blue basic totem/alien), red basic totem, red basic totem, yellow basic totem/alien.

Note about rapping: It's pretty easy to get down, via different routes or downclimb or tree 2nd rap. I agree with Jon. Another anchor is NOT needed. I like the one where it is! What a fun 40m-45m or maybe 50m long climb!
By Zacks
Aug 5, 2016

the bolt protected part was fun and thought provoking, cruised the layback to the left can't be harder than 5.9. At the slot before the chains the thin crack was packed with dirt, you don't use it for hand but it made the section hard to protect, had to clip the 1/4in bolt and then there is no gear larger than .2 BD before the chains, I had a red c3 left and couldn't get it in at the last section, got a #6 bd nut in but it popped when i weighted the rope at the chains which are what 20ft over that old bolt? Easy climbing here but i'd like to replace that bolt. Also could use a intermediate rap anchor, 70m was past the half mark when i hit the chains. It was very time consuming to bring up my second traverse to the top of mysterious Frenchwomen and rap strange boar. Very fun climb.
By derekpearson Pearson
Aug 9, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Hey Zacks , I can replace that bolt. I want to be sure to reuse the same hole. I also could manage a intermediate anchor. I have a plan to clean up Anarchy and Chaos and a intermediate anchor would be ideal for that.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 18, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I would say that one needs to lead these cracks with a nut tool to clean for placements. I have completely cleaned this section like 3 times, it just fills with needles. there are many blue-green Alien placements there, no need for a bolt. Also I think the anchor is fine, not every route has to have a 60 or 70m rap.
By derekpearson Pearson
Aug 20, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Hi Geoff, the bolt I was referring to was the existing one. It's on the rib and protects the flare section. It is a original bolt. I managed to replace the other bolt that protects the move , moving from the lay back crack to the start of the flare. I reused the same hole for that bolt, it came out real easy. the upper one for the flare felt solid and wouldn't pull out so I left it, but it would be nice if it was stainless.

On the anchor, I was thinking of having one at the end of the five bolts. But it's not necessary.
By kendallt
Sep 17, 2016

I did the harder left variation, the right side looked pretty overgrown. Most of the climb was dirty (pine needles) except for that left variation, I took the advice here and used a nut tool to dig for placements in the upper section. We rapped with a 60m rope, someone slung a tree in the gully to the right with webbing and a rap ring.
By TaylorLutz
From: Seattle
Jun 23, 2017

I did the right variation and though no single move was that difficult (5.9 as others have mentioned) the gear was a bit runout and a little thought provoking.
By Douglas T
Sep 14, 2017

Rapping made easy:
Climber A stops at anchor, Climber B follows then continues past anchor to the bolt with a chain, places a quickdraw, clips draw, walks to the edge left of Climber A to find the Frenchwoman anchor. Climber B steps down and anchors in. Climber B puts Climber A on belay who can get the draw and step down to anchor. With rope stretch, a 70m gets you to the ground with some scrambling at the end. With a 60m, stop at the Strange Boar anchor and rap again.
By derekpearson Pearson
Sep 16, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Thanks doug yo the man!
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 17, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Cleaned and sorta climbed the 2nd pitch today, started raining, the nerve, after more then 3 months without rain. I found the old bolt- rusty 1/4", no hanger. This pitch is supposed to be 10c, seemed harder the Ship called black rock.
I don't know how long it's been since this was last climbed, corner was full of vegetation, but strangely there was a cord-o-lete at the top with a locker on it? My friend Bill did most of the cleaning while I messed around on Ship called Black rock- which also got a thorough scrubbing.
Also there is a yellowjackets nest under the big dead tree at the ledge at the top of the 1st pitch of Law and Order, which Bill found the hard way.
So don't try to rap off the tree or single bolt, just go over to French Woman anchor, lean over, clip in.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 18, 2017

Thanks Geoff and Bill for cleaning pitch 2. That looks like a great corner.

Too bad about those yellowjackets though. They seem to be more numerous this summer. I've been attacked in the area three times this summer, though in none of the cases did I see a nest or get a good look at them -- they just came out of the ground.

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