REI Community
Flavin Haven
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
C-4 Yourself S 
Caldera S 
Gunned Down by Goofy S 
Honey Badger Don't Care S 
Jaws of Life S 
Lava Haul S 
Nice Jugs S 
Tore Down S 

Lava Haul 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kelly Cordner
Page Views: 2,171
Submitted By: Bruce Willey on Jun 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Lava Haul, 5.10a. Flavin Haven Wall.


Excellent climb, one of the best of its grade in the Gorge. Mantle up past two bolts heading right to a wide step-across to the left. Crimp and smear up a slabby section to a small ramp to the left. Lieback around and up to the dihedral and then straight up to the anchors.


Upper Gorge Flavin Haven


17 bolts

Comments on Lava Haul Add Comment
Show which comments
By B.S. Luther
From: Yorba Linda, CA
Apr 4, 2011

Highly recommended climb. If your accustomed to vertical face climbing like me, this is a really interesting foray into angles of all kinds.
By kelly cordner
From: Fish Lake Valley, NV
Apr 18, 2012

Lava Haul was extended to higher anchors. I counted 16 bolts. Use a 70 meter rope. The grade is still 10a. This route was originally set as a rope solo ground up using a soloist. The lower anchors were used to accommodate the shorter ropes of 90's. you can get to the original chain anchors (maybe a 10b move) and set up a top rope on Caldera with a 70m rope. Those anchors were used to set the "point full" variation on Caldera.
By Xtine
From: Las Vegas and Sierra Eastside
Apr 12, 2014

One of the best 10a's I've ever climbed, thanks Kelly. Quite an adventure with the slab, liebacking, crimps/edges, traversing, crack, jugs, high stepping, mantling....used almost all on this route. And love that it's long. Bring an extendable to prevent rope drag on the 5th or so bolt.
By kozzybear406
From: Livingston, MT
Apr 14, 2014

Bring 17 draws if you want to clip them all.
By tahoemnts Schroeder
From: Truckee, California
Nov 10, 2014

NOTE: This route is 17 bolts not 13. You need a 70 meter rope to lower off anchors. 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground as I experienced this issue yesterday. It appears the route described in the latest Gorge guide is out of date.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 24, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

One of the best sport pitches of 5.10 I've done anywhere. Really good and really glad I brought extra draws (and still had to backclean a couple bolts) and a 70m line.

On the grade side, the budding 5.10 leader will likely struggle on this one, so 5.10a seems light to me. It had my attention for sure.
By Eric Gratien
From: Ridgecrest, CA
Jan 26, 2016

Fantastic climb. Pumpy at the top but very well protected. I also definitely recommend extending the 5th-7th bolts to prevent rope drag.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About