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Latest Craze S 

Latest Craze 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 11
Submitted By: Nick Russell on May 12, 2014

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Description 

One of the crags most classic routes, powerful and delicate in turn, with insecure moves up the photogenic arete bounding the right side of the Crawl Wall.

Start about 4m right of the arete, with a few strenuous pulls to gain a good pinch and clip the second bolt. Now make a big span leftwards to gain the arete, using good sidepulls but not much for the feet.

The position on the arete is not quite a rest, but take a few moments to shake out before launching up the arete. A heel-hook on a good ledge round the arete helps out, but it's pretty full-on past the next 2 bolts before finally grabbing a horizontal break near the top. Now swing round to the left of the arete and take a breather before easy moves past the final bolt gain the lower-off.

Location 

Just before dropping down to the traverse and fixed rope beneath the Crawl Wall the path passes beneath the wall bounding the right-hand side of the buttress. Latest Craze is the only bolted line on this wall, starting about 4m right of the arete, then traversing leftwards onto it.

Protection 

5 bolts, plus two-bolt lower-off with rings.


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