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YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Shawn Diamond
Page Views: 732
Submitted By: Joey Catama on Sep 10, 2015

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Start just inside the left side of the cave on a rock that's in the water. (right of Kathmandu). Climbs up, then through the center of the cave doing cryptic moves to an outrageous move to a two finger pocket. Then at the 4th bolt continue right on Ghetto Crossing and finishing at its anchors.

7 bolts, extending the 3rd bolt helps. Hard for the grade.

The route was originally tried from deep within the cave but since the climbing was not very challenging (and a bit chossy), the direct start was used for the first ascent. As far as I know, the deep start has not yet been red pointed.

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By Isaac Palatt
From: Colorado Springs
Nov 6, 2015

Bolts three, 6, and 7 were replaced with Titan Climbing, 5" titanium glue-ins on September 23rd, 2015. bolts 4, 5, and 8 would benefit from being replaced eventually, but did not need it at this time.
At the time that I replaced the bols, I also equipped the route with 5 steel perma-draws, but as they were removed I will not be replacing them. Haters gonna hate.
By Daniel Vakili
May 16, 2016

So why don't people start DEEP in the cave? From what Ive seen recently, people start shallow, shortening the route. That's not the route to being the best climber you can be. Don't you want to be the best climber you can be?
By Chrisopher R.
From: Chatsworth, Ca
Aug 2, 2016

I was wondering the same thing Daniel. I tried the route for the first time this past weekend -with no previous beta- and climbed/hung my way out from deep within the cave. Despite the pungent scent of urine, the climbing was pretty rad with good flow (no pun on urine). I can't imagine robbing the route of a pumpy intro to better earn the grade. Perhaps they are working beta in these videos? Beta aside, cleaning this route totally blows! I'm considering leaving something temporarily permanent deep within the cave to assist through the projecting process (Four draws). Hopefully the locals can play nice and allow me and others a little time to put some work in. Isaac I'm sorry to hear about your attempt to give back to this awesome route, I'm sure my gear too will go the way of the dodo and disappear, but one can only hope.

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