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Lateralus 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 34'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Sept 29, 2013
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: M Sprague on Sep 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Kind of a mini version of Venus on a Halfshell. Fun climbing; I just wish it kept going and was in a more accessible location.
Climb out on the juggy rail and clip your first bolt then throw your right foot up and press into a long reach for a crimpy flake (take care not to rip it off, please) Clip again and continue into a crimpy sequence that gets you to good holds where you can now move left and get a shake. Up high and left gets you to the start of a series of cool pockets angling back right that ends with a pop with bad feet to the anchor clipping jug.

Great for getting away from the crowds. Short but engaging.

Location 

Above, almost at the very top of the steep gully between Cozened Stone and Very Nice Crack, on the left wall. The very nice 'Lectra Crack (which is actually nicer than Very Nice Crack, with one bolt at its start) is just left of it. Alternatively, if you are already in the vicinity of the Asylum, walk to the very left side of that crag and you will find a goat path that will drop you into the gully half way up. Take care if you come from the Asylum, as it is a little exposed at one point and you are above the Prudential.

Protection 

4 fat galvanized glue-in bolts, clippie anchors.


Comments on Lateralus Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Quinn
Oct 18, 2013

AWESOME! Tool Rules!
By Waveclimb
From: LA, CA
Oct 18, 2013

By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Oct 19, 2013

These new routes make me so happy. I'm a huge Tool fan.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 27, 2016

This route is so lonely. It gets no loving :(
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jun 28, 2016

Mark do you have any photo's of this?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 28, 2016

Nope, sorry.
By Troy S
From: Somerville, MA
Jun 29, 2016

I'm planning on checking it out this weekend.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 30, 2016

Cool, have fun

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