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Lastoni di Formin

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Evergreen S 
Love my Dogs (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 
Nikibi (Torrione Marcella formation) S 
North West Buttress  T 
Re Artu (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 
Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ) T 

Lastoni di Formin Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 1,071
Administrators: Tim Wolfe, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kristine Hoffman on Nov 30, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Route locations and descents


Lastoni di Formin is the huge flat topped wall/plateau facing West towards the road below the pass. It consist of multiple named faces (Torrione Marcella, Ponte de Giau, Gran Diadro, Spiz de Mondeval) that are accessed either from the top of the pass (longer walk) or from various parking spots along the road down the hill towards Cortina. The routes are in the 9-14 pitch range on high quality rock with brilliant climbing and range from purely traditional lines to mixed lines to pure sport climbs.

Getting There 

On the road 638 coming down from Passo Giau there is a hard right hand hairpin turn followed by a 90 degree left hand turn 50 meters down. At this left hand turn is a parking space for about 6-8 cars on the north side (left if going downhill) of the road. Park here. There is a large pasture across the road with a marked trail (436) along the top side of the pasture that leads up to Lastoni di Formin. Follow path 436 for awhile towards Forcella Giau. If you wish to climb the central buttresses then leaving the trail on a climbers path beneath the wall and heading directly across the meadows left to the base of the buttress. To climb the routes above the pass (Spiz de Mondeval), hike up the hill to the pass and then work up left off the path through the rocks up to the routes.

It is also possible to approach Forcella Giau using a path that traverses directly across from Passo Giau (again path 436) then descends down to the path described here and back up over the pass. This is likely a bit faster approach but a longer return to car.

For the routes on the far left end of the buttress (Torrione Marcella) drive further down the road until you find a large parking spot on the East side of the road that again sits by a small pasture directly across from the routes. Cross this pasture on its top end and stay high to descend then ascend up through the stream gully. Continue following a well worn climbers path to the scree field below the routes.

Climbing Season

For the Dolomites area.

Weather station 20.3 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lastoni di Formin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lastoni di Formin:
Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation )   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lastoni di Formin

Featured Route For Lastoni di Formin
Rock Climbing Photo: Torrione Marcella with routes

Nikibi (Torrione Marcella formation) 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Europe : Italy : ... : Lastoni di Formin
This is a very enjoyable route with only one short section of 5.10d/11a and lots of easy 5.10 climbing. Excepting the easy first pitch is it well protected with high quality bolts.Pitch 1 &2: Climb the path of least resistance up the slab sits just right of the prow. Keep an eye out for a rare bolt. Climb up to a point (first belay area), then down into a shallow depression and up another 3rd class slab to the second belay (2 bolts). Easy 5th class at the start, then 4th class then 3rd class. 60...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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