Last Temptation Cliff Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Chimps in Négligée (5.9), Death & Taxes (5.10c),...
Last Temptation is a small crag that is found on the way to Goat Rock. The cliffs face west and are in full sun most of the day making it a fairly hot place to climb. There are approximately 8 routes here, mostly sport, but some routes do require trad gear. Anchors are found on top of most routes. An easy decent follows a trail down the left side of the cliffs. Other guidebooks do mention snakes but we didn't see any on this trip.
From the Castle Rock State Park parking lot, follow the trail that leads down towards the Waterfalls lookout platform. Once you cross the little stream don't follow the trail leading down left to the waterfall but follow the trail that goes up the hill and to the left. After about 5 minutes the trail will lead out of the trees and as soon as you are out in the open, look right and up. The right side of the Last Temptation cliffs will be about 40' above you. A path leads up towards the left side of the cliffs from the patch of trees ahead.
Climbing Season For the Castle Rock Area area.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Last Temptation Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Last Temptation Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Last Temptation Cliff:
Featured Route For Last Temptation Cliff
Go I Know Not To Wither 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b California
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : Last Temptation Cliff
This is a great route with a surprise start. I thought it would be strictly a face route viewing from the approach path but there are several good hard moves inching up the crack to reach the second bolt. Once clipped to the second bolt, the route moves onto the face on small but secure holds. Clipping the third bolt is a bit nervy but not too bad. Up the face to the overhang where you will be glad to get in some trad gear. A fun, not so obvious move gets you on top of the block and then on...[more] Browse More Classics in California
The climb I did at Castle Rock (Unknown route and ...
BETA PHOTO: First view of Last Tempation cliff, right 1/2 side...
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Apr 25, 2010
Bolted routes from left to right on the main Last Temptation cliffband:
1. Lobotomy, 5.11d. One bolt about 10 feet up, two closely spaced bolts at a big roof about 40 feet up, two-bolt anchor.
2. Chimps in Negligee, 5.9, 3 bolts, two-bolt anchor (shared with Charlie's Angel)
3. Charlie's Angel, 5.11b, 5 bolts, two-bolt anchor (shared with Chimps in Negligee).
4. Go I Know Not Whither, 5.10d, 4 bolts, two-bolt anchor (bring cams, finger or hand sized).
5. Live Monkey Brain, 5.11a, 5 bolts, two-bolt anchor.
From: Oceano, CA
Jan 29, 2015
Had a great time visiting this area last weekend. As we were on the trail to Goat Rock, we ended up checking out the first rock formation we came to and climbed it a bit. There's plenty of bolted anchors on it and a couple sport routes. I can't find any info on it on Mountain project. Anyone know what rock we climbed.
It's located at 37.227907, -122.105680. See the map
The climb I did at Castle Rock (Unknown route and rock details)
By John Buchenauer
Jan 31, 2015
Smart, that looks like Last Temptation Cliff, and your rope hanging between Chimps in Negligee (5.9 on left) and Charlie's Angel (5.11b on right).