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Last of a Dying Breed  

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b X [details]
FA: Andrew Smiser and Matt Lloyd
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: mlloyd on May 13, 2017

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Andrew Smiser on the co-FA of "Last of a Dyin...

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  • Description 

    This route begins as for "The Hangman". It climbs the runout and scary crux of that route but then diverges out directly above (rather than left into the easier climbing of The Hangman) into the obvious, blank face above. Climb the unprotected, perfect edges on the face on the more than vertical headwall culminating with a big move to a mega-jug at the lip.

    This route was put up as a headpoint, and keeping with the spirit of Eldo, no bolts or fixed gear were implemented. It was climbed after toprope rehearsal. The rock is clean and nearly perfect. A slip from the finishing jug will result in a groundfall.

    Location 

    This shares the start of The Hangman. It is visible from Wind Ridge. It climbs the lichen face.

    Protection 

    A 0.3 blue and yellow micro BD. That's it.


    Photos of Last of a Dying Breed Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Last of a Dying Breed.
    BETA PHOTO: Topo for Last of a Dying Breed.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Lloyd on the co-FA, check out the last piece ...
    Matt Lloyd on the co-FA, check out the last piece ...

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