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Sundance Buttress
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Last Gasp 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 750'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chip Salaun, 1979
Page Views: 3,702
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Apr 26, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: This picture, stolen from Cajun Capers (thanks Deb...

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  • Description 

    This is truly Sundance Buttress's 'last gasp' in terms of terrain worth climbing. While the route is good for the grade, it won't offer much as a consolation prize to climbers who trekked out to Sundance with a classic 5.9 or 5.10 in mind. That said, this route is one of the longest of its grade at Lumpy Ridge, and will offer a 5.6 leader a bigger day than most of the other routes of that difficulty.

    P1: 50 feet left of Cajun Capers' start, climb up and left over the slab (I went through some bushes) to a notch with a decent stance near a small tree, 5.5.

    P2: climb up to the west edge of Limber Pine Ledge over easy terrain. Blay off trees at the base of a huge, right-facing dihedral, 5.4.

    P3: a fun pitch. Climb the massive dihedral, exiting to belay at a tree on a ledge, 5.6.

    P4: from the ledge, climb a left-facing corner as it arches up and left past a tree. Belay at a stance near a dead tree, 5.5.

    P5: climb up through the left edge of a roof, much easier than it looks. A very short pitch that puts you on top of Sundance without your even noticing, 5.6.


    This route begins left of Cajun Capers, about as far as you can hike before the slabs drop off to climber's left, and ascends the most westward fifth class terrain on Sundance Buttress.


    Standard rack.

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