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Last Dance 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FFA: Wolfe/Weygand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,472
Submitted By: Maidy on Apr 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Erik Wolfe hitting the crux hold on the FA

Description 

Climb past an arch and balance/reach/jump (?) through the crux roof (5.10d). The moves through the roof may be more difficult for those of shorter stature. Continue up slabby moves and fun moderate climbing to a second tricky move and a unique hold,then balance up to the anchors.

Location 

Located on the far right side of the Saddle Peak/Corpse Wall formation.
Just right of Route 10.

Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchors.


Photos of Last Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the route in its entirety.
BETA PHOTO: View of the route in its entirety.

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By Maidy
Apr 16, 2012

The 10+ move on this climb is the bouldery roof move right at the the first bolt. Crux difficulty may be somewhat height-dependent and the rating is not yet fixed while we get a consensus. Fun, moderate, balancy climbing after the roof. Climb still has a fair amount of lichen, but clean holds and footholds are present and some traffic will improve it.
By Tristan Burnham
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 22, 2012

Pretty fun route. The start was real tricky, but I used a small flake down and left instead of the left sloper and it made the move way easier. I'd say it's a 10d but all the other moves are 5.9-5.10a.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Interesting moves and good protection. We've repeated it on several occasions, a height dependent, one move wonder that is much easier if you're 6 ft. or taller. Take care clipping the 4th bolt as a fall onto a ledge is possible.
By Wil Sterner
From: Topanga, California
Oct 9, 2013

Best route on the wall.
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Sep 7, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The first move is the cruxy 10d move. Its totally protected and very much height dependent. If I was two inches taller it'd feel like no more than 10a.

The rest of the climbing is great too. Slabby 9/10a climbing with an awesome finger lock in the middle.
By polloloco
From: Downey, CA
Oct 8, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great climb! Definitely had to work on the first move a few times. At first it felt stiffly rated, but eventually I thought the grade was fair.

Agree with the above comments about lichen and 4th bolt. It looks like it's been cleaning up nicely.
By S. Lucas
From: CA
May 11, 2017

I really enjoyed this route, did it twice simply because I enjoyed the moves so much.

The "cruxy" start is very well protected. As others have noted, the rest of the route is nowhere near 10d. If you can pull the fist move, you'll enjoy some delightful 5.9-ish moves to the top.

I plan on bringing a brush next time to help clean some of the moss.
By alex carey
Jun 10, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I'm 5'11" and I use every inch to get to the hold. I have to jump from a standing position to get to it.

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