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Last Chance T 

Last Chance 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Jan 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Your objective is to climb the splitter cracks on the right side of the dome's south face, and this route follows the easiest path (although not the most direct line) to the base of the cracks. Starting from the left (west) side of the Upper Dome's south face, traverse right, walking atop a large flake. Keep traversing right past the end of the flake, proceeding along an inobvious but easy line, to the base of the three cracks, which then lead to the top.
See the photo topo in the excellent online guide.

Location 

Starts under a triangular roof near the western side of the dome's south face. Walk off the back of the dome (with a slightly bouldery downclimb to get off the summit proper).

Protection 

Singles of nuts and cams, to 3". The traverse, while not difficult climbing, is sort of hard to protect for either the leader or the second. Gear anchor on top, with a bomber body stance behind the summit boulder.


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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jan 12, 2009

This climb may be more like 5.7-, or 5.6++. But I left the description rated at 5.7 out of deference to the online guide's rating.
By Ryan Smyth
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 28, 2009

I would agree. its probably 5.7- but its a pretty fun little climb. very short but its a good way to finish up for the day. i belayed at the top off of a #4 and a #3 camalot and there was webbing wrapped around the rock with rap rings i used for my 3rd piece. so you can rap the route if you like.

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