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5. Iron Side Wall
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Last Chance 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unpublished
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 31, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

150 feet left of the point where the trail meets the wall is a collection of one pitch sport routes taking off from a flat spot in the talus. Several routes right of the obvious dihedral with a trad crack inside is a long route up a clean, juggy yellowish wall. This is Last Chance, and it provides one of the best sport pitches on the rock. The angle backs off after the mid point, but this does not diminish an excellent route. Last Chance has good stone, is well protected, and offers fine climbing - well worth the trip.

Protection 

Tons of draws (18) and two ropes. This pitch is 125 feet long.


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By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 8, 2012

A single 70m worked for us, but if your rope is short at all, you might not get all the way down.
By erin demarco
Jun 18, 2017

Climb this route! Far more enjoyable 5.11 climbing than Rad Lad, esp if you're 5'4" and have a -1, no stopper moves! Take the dirt trail through the talus until the dirt trail peters out, look to the right for a big, flat boulder close to the wall just before getting into the talus field. Really fantastic movement and edging, not even just for the area but all around.
By michalm
Jun 18, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Wow! This is one of the best pitches of its grade and style imaginable! Here are 125' of fun, technical edging on beautiful rock. It is really confounding why some of the mediocre routes nearby get so much more traffic than this masterpiece. This is one of the rare single pitches that gets 5 stars in my book. With some new bolts, this route will become an ultra-classic.

The movement is aesthetic, continuous, and satisfying, the rock quality is incredible after the first 12-15', and the rock is gorgeous. Between the fluorescent green and yellow lichen down low to the golden rock just above to the pastel streaked, mirror-polished plaques up high, this route is really something special. The best part is that you can't see a single one of the perfect edges until you have climbed to it.

As a note, a 70m should reach on rappel with stretch. We used an 80 and had a comfortable toprope.

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