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Larry Land

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angels and Demons S 
Atomic S 
Blue Dream S 
Fairy Land S 
G Time S 
Gary Land S 
Guilt Trip S 
Hall of Smears S 
Hello Larry S 
Hot Rod S 
Jakob's Ladder S 
Larry Land S 
Leisure Suit Larry S 
Mr. Nice Guy S 
Porn Star S 
Reality Check S 
Sub Text S 
Super Natural S 
Tacos and Tequila S 
Thrillbilly S 
Yuba Blue S 

Larry Land Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.4443, -120.6542 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,821
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kurt Swanson on Jan 13, 2012

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Josh heading up Larry Land .11c. Bowman Valley, CA...


Larry Land is a series of routes beneath the south dam of the Bowman Lake. It is located directly below the dam, with climbs within feet of the dam itself. As you approach the dam, it is the left wall.

There are about 30 bolted climbs ranging from 5.10-5.13a. Athletic climbing on good edges.

Getting There 

Appox 13.5 miles off Hwy 20 down Bowman Lakes road. Park at the bridge beneath the south dam of Bowman Lake. Once parked , hike the dirt road on the south side of the river towards the cement damn, crossing the gorge on the poured cement slab to the left side of the gorge. Approach takes about 10 minutes. The climbs are all just beneath the dam.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.5 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Larry Land

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Larry Land:
Leisure Suit Larry   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Hello Larry   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   
Hot Rod   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   
Larry Land   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 75'   
Super Natural   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   
Atomic   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 45'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Larry Land

Featured Route For Larry Land
Rock Climbing Photo: super natural .11c, larry land, bowman, ca.

Super Natural 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Larry Land
Thin powerful face climbing...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Larry Land Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: larry land
larry land
Rock Climbing Photo: larry land
larry land
Rock Climbing Photo: gabe on thrilbilly .11d
gabe on thrilbilly .11d
Rock Climbing Photo: gabe metzger on larry land .11c, bowman valley, ca
gabe metzger on larry land .11c, bowman valley, ca
Rock Climbing Photo: Larry Land from against the dam
Larry Land from against the dam

Comments on Larry Land Add Comment
Show which comments
By mike carville
Feb 16, 2013
Superb rock, easy access, fun sport climbing. Mostly 5.11. Shade till noon then sun remainder of day. Good afternoon shade at B-Word Wall. About 15 bolts lines at Larry Land ranging form .10a - 13a.

Park at bridge exactly 13.5 miles off Hwy 20 on the Bowman Rd. Walk up right side of washed out stream bed (8 mins.) to cement dam (Bowman Lake). Larry Land is obvious bolted cliff that comes off let side of dam. Good swimming at Lake.
By Vlad S
Mar 24, 2014
Hi Mike! Thanks a lot for putting the info here and for all the awesome routes! What's the best way to get some route info for B-word and other crags?
By mike carville
Mar 27, 2014
glad ya had fun. the b - word routes are in the old carville guide. approach from below and cross stream. park on left after big washout couple hundred yards past larry land parking.

left to right (main wall) .12a, 13a, 12c, 12d, 12a, 11d, 12a, 12b.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jul 8, 2015
Hi Mike,

Been 4 times now to Bowman Valley and really love it there. Great rock, routes, and very peaceful. There are prominent NO TRESPASSING signs going into Larry Land. Is it ok to climb there? Thanks!
By F Rodgers
Jul 10, 2015
Looking at the 7.5 minute topo, it appears all of Larry Land is on NID property, not Forest Service land. Has there been any encounters or discussion with the land managers?
By mike carville
Sep 6, 2015
we've had conversations with NID workers for 5 years now and there seems to be no issue. that being said - no one should climb or rappel off dam. also important that folks don't park in front of the cable on the access road. that happens from time to time. glad you guys are enjoying the climbing there!
By John Robinson
From: Elk Grove, ca
Oct 23, 2015
Paul Rezucha There are warning signs etc but there are no actual signs that say NO TRESPASSING that I recall
By Mark Doliner
Oct 26, 2015
I think there might be another line of bolts between Yuba Blue and Fairy Land. On the right side of the wall there are a few large metal poles embedded in the rock in a vertical line (from dam construction, I assume). My memory sucks and I didn't take very good notes (sorry), but I believe there are two routes to the right of these poles. I believe the one furthest right was Yuba Blue.

The one immediately on the right of the metal poles seems like it isn't listed on Mountain Project currently. It was about 12 feet to the left of Yuba Blue. It didn't seem like Fairy Land because it seemed like Fairy Land was a little further left. It felt like 5.11a. Shares an anchor with Yuba Blue. The anchor is a pair of large-style hangers that you can thread a rope directly through. I recommend rapping off these rather than being lowered, and it might be hard to clean the route on rappel, so you might want to have a second climber top-rope the route and clean while climbing.

I'm hesitant to add it here because it's very possible I'm wrong, but mentioning it in case it helps someone with route finding.
By mike carville
May 29, 2016

Check out Josh Horniak's new website for his upcoming guide book to Tahoe north shore. Free topo for Larry Land, Bowman.
By Andrew Davies
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 5, 2017
If climbing around August-early September: the sun hits the wall around 10-10:30 (made the crux part of the namesake climb extra sweaty). This is a bit earlier than what I'd heard, which is that the sun hits the wall around noon, though I'm sure that's referring to more peak season. The leftward climbs (like Pornstar) stayed in the sun until around 11:30.

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