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Lark's Tongue 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Scott and Stephanie Gilliam June 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Scott Gilliam on Jun 3, 2014

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Dennis Buice pulling lightly through the crux.

Description 

Begin as for the Nevermore corner/chimney (left of Indian Head). At the hollow sounding jug on the left side of the chimney, head left, climbing out onto the face. Follow the line of least resistance to a small stance. Equalize some micronuts in some quartz and tiptoe through the hard bit. Be careful not to break off any holds as ledge fall is quite likely. Sling a horn and break left toward the arete for the scamper to the top. Build a belay on top of the small buttress, bring your partner up and then rap from the anchor above Nevermore chimney/corner.

Location 

Begin in the Nevermore chimney (left of Indian Head). Break left onto the face and finish atop the small buttress.

Protection 

Micronuts to 5.0 Friend. Double ropes, screamer helpful


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Rock Climbing Photo: Beta Photo.
Beta Photo.

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By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Jun 3, 2014

Fun climbing on suspect rock over questionable gear. Suckered one friend into repeating it. A good top rope perhaps?
By S Tart
Jul 14, 2014

Dennis Buice and I cleaned up some of the loose rock on Larke's Tongue and it turned out really nice. I would almost give this line 3 stars now. It is a bunch of fun but the gear will keep you on your toes.

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