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Large and In Charge T 
Mother Lode T 
Thin Is In T 

Large and In Charge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Adam Kimmerly & Robb Kulin - April 13, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: Adam Kimmerly on Apr 14, 2008

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Description 

Scramble up 10 feet to the crack and then fist jam to the top. The crux is pulling through the pod section near the bottom where the crack flares inward and the crack is too wide to foot jam.

Location 

The left-most, vertical, 50-foot fist crack on the South wall of the corridor left of "Thin Is In". Faces North and is shady all day.

Protection 

Tape, long pants, long sleeves... oh, gear. Right... 3-4.5" pieces are key. #3 and #4 Camalots protect the crack well. You might be able to find a spot for a #2 deep in the crack near the top, but three #3s and one #4 is best. I'm sure you could use two #3s and two #4s instead. Anchor with more wide gear, or tie off to a tree 30' back from the top of the route. Short walk off to the climber's left.


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