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Laptad-Prince route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dick Laptad and Sue Prince, late 1960's
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Jul 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Dave Rone on the finish of Laptad-Prince. July, 20...

Description 

Follow gully between King Pin and Queen Pin to its highest point where you can step right onto King Pin. Execute 5.7 slab traverse to the first bolt (protectable with pro). Climb face to summit. Nice route to the summit of King Pin with some interesting movement.

Location 

The route starts in the gully between the King Pin and Queen Pin, 10 feet left from the overhanging crack of Quartz Jester.

Protection 

Few medium nuts and small (~ .5 c4) cams to protect the traverse to the first bolt. 5 quickdraws. Anchors at the top. Single 60m rope gets you down.


Comments on Laptad-Prince route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Jul 11, 2013

I climbed this route a number of years ago. I don't remember there being five bolts on it, if any. Five bolts is not Doc Laptad's style. Paul Piana makes no mention of any bolts on this route in "Touch the Sky" likewise (he tends to be very accurate in bolt and piton counts in his descriptions). I suspect someone didn't do thier homework and added bolts to an existing route. We better call Henry Barber...
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 10, 2017

My memory on this is hazy but I don't recall any bolts either, and I agree that five bolts was nowhere near something the Laptad would have done at the time with a hammer and hand drill. Offhand, I can't think of a route in the Needles in those days that had more than two bolts (e.g. Hairy Pin had two).
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Feb 12, 2017

Re-reading the comments under Organized Crime, I think I was actually providing adescription for Organized Crime, mistaking it for Laptad Prince. My bad -- will take it down. Thank you for your comments, guys!

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