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Lap Dance 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P1: Unknown. P2 & 3: Bryan Bird & Joe French
Page Views: 1,046
Submitted By: Gargano on Apr 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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F'in Tight P: Bernard Fat Bong Lam

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Lap Dance follows a beautiful corner system for three pitches. The route is like a climbing tour through the desert, with each pitch exemplifying the style of a different climbing area. Roughly.

P1: Begin in Indian Creek. A clean tight hands splitter in a varnished right-facing dihedral. A long aesthetic pitch with steep sections punctuated by small rest ledges. 5.11-. 155'. Bolt anchor.

P2: Move on to Red Rocks. Changing corners and a thoughtful stemming roof. Featured face climbing around hand cracks. Start up a right-facing dihedral and switch to a left-facing dihedral. As the gear peters out, stem into a improbable roof, clip a bolt and pull onto the face. 5.9. 110'. Ratty slings on loose rock and shrubs.

Move the belay across a sandy ledge to the base of the next wall.

P3: Welcome to Zion. Climb through some ledges and vegetation to a short chimney and roof. A fun pull through the roof leads to a nice, long hand crack in a right-facing dihedral. Enter a squeeze and exit onto loose and vegetated ledges. Scrap up to a nice ledge. 5.10. 130'. Bolt anchor.

Rappel with two 60m ropes in three raps.

Consider bringing some webbing/rope/cord to clean up the P2 belay.

Location 

This route is located a few hundred yards to the left of the second tunnel window. The route is identified by the long varnished right-facing dihedral of P1. It's visible from the parking area.

Park at the second to last turnout before the Zion-Mt. Caramel Tunnel. Follow a trail that leads through a wash and past some large house-sized boulders. Continue on the trail around the I'n'I and U'n'U buttress. Keep your eyes peeled for the black varnished splitter corner. That's Lap Dance.

Protection 

1x 0.5" - 0.75"
3x 1" - 2"
2x 2.5"
1x 3.5"

Optional extra 1.75-2".

The guide recommended a 4" and a 5" piece. Neither are necessary.


Photos of Lap Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Splitta, Jack Plantz climbing. Bernard Lam with th...
Splitta, Jack Plantz climbing. Bernard Lam with th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising up some tight hands on P3
Cruising up some tight hands on P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Mac raps P3 of Lap Dance. The route climbs through...
Mac raps P3 of Lap Dance. The route climbs through...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P2 of Lap Dance. Roof above changing ...
Looking down P2 of Lap Dance. Roof above changing ...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Lap Dance. Big fingers to tight hands. An ex...
P1 of Lap Dance. Big fingers to tight hands. An ex...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mac following the beautiful first pitch of Lap Dan...
Mac following the beautiful first pitch of Lap Dan...

Comments on Lap Dance Add Comment
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By Caleb Padgett
From: Rockville, utah
Sep 18, 2014

09/18/14
Installed a 2 bolt belay at the top of the second pitch and removed the tat on the blocks and shrubs.
All belays are now equipped with quick links and chain for rappelling.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 4, 2014

This is a really fun and quality route. A few comments on the conditions of it.

At the top of pitch 1, there is a suitcase sized death block teetering just below the belay. I was not able to pull it out but it has about 4" of play if you pull on it. It will come down on its own if not removed intentionally. I pasted a few large "X" marks on it and hope these dont wash off. It will scare the bejesus out of anyone who accidentally tugs on it.

This route, just like all the others we climbed following the September 27th rain event, was super sandy. I think that it will wipe off eventually. Most of it probably came off with or ascent.


Also, save a .3 camalot to protect the move standing up to clip the bolt on pitch 2. Its not an obvious placement but you will see if if you look for it. This may have felt way more heady for me with all the sand and dirt pasting the wall the day we did it. I was happy to have this piece in.
By Ray Hellinger
From: Gunnison, CO
Mar 25, 2015

P1 is one of my favorite pitches in Zion. Love this climb. One of the best routes in the Cragmont area.
By Ray Hellinger
From: Gunnison, CO
Apr 21, 2015

FYI, trundled the scary block at the top of pitch one.

I am curious what people think of the top out of P3. A bolt would be nice. Pretty runnout and sandy. Otherwise, P3 is pretty amazing and fun.

For gear, I took the following BD cams:
1 x 0.3/0.4
3 x 0.5/0.75
6 x 1
2 x 2
2 x 3
1 x 4/5
By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 22, 2015

As for P3, "pretty runout and sandy" describes a decent amount of terrain in Zion. While a bolt might protect the top of P3, it wasn't the intent of the FA party and, overall, it's this aspect of the climbing that makes Zion adventurous and rewarding.
By Anus Herder
From: Montrose, CO
May 26, 2017

The first pitch is more splitter than indian creek!! Next two pitches are fun and mellow, stellar route definitely get on this thing!

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