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Land's End (Direct) T 
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Land's End (Direct) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: 1960: Art Gran and Jim McCarthy
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: bryan barnett on Nov 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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April 5th 1988. Mark Taylor on Lands End up at the...


1. Up face past a right-facing flake and overhang to stance. Move up past a creaking right-facing flake (see comments below) into a right facing corner and overhang. Undercling right, then up and right to belay.

2. Up face to three inch crack that breaks an overhang. Pass the overhang to a stance. Then up face and right facing corner to GTLedge.


Start 40 feet right of Overhanging Layback's large right-facing corner.


Standard Gunks rack.

Photos of Land's End (Direct) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: April 5th 1988. Looking up P2 of Lands End from th...
April 5th 1988. Looking up P2 of Lands End from th...
Rock Climbing Photo: April 5th 1988. Mark Taylor getting started on Lan...
April 5th 1988. Mark Taylor getting started on Lan...

Comments on Land's End (Direct) Add Comment
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By J. Nickel
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The first pitch has good climbing, but I'd call it 5.9+. There is also an R-rated runout on 5.7 terrain past a very questionable flake. A large cam (blue Camalot or larger) is handy for the arching crack after the runout. Also, the anchor at the top of the first pitch consists of two old pins, two ancient tricams, and an extra-crispy sling hanging down from a tie-off, all tied together with slings and rings of uncertain vintage. It can be backed up fairly easily, but bear this in mind if you're not planning on doing the second pitch.
By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

That's right. There is R section of flakes (it is 5.7ish utill they pop)
By Spiro
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Wish I know about the R section. Williams guide has it as a G rating. Surprise!
By chewtoynj
From: NJ
Apr 23, 2010

Swain has this straight up version rated as a 5.10. The original route goes right after the first roof on poorly protected good holds.

I climbed this 2 weeks ago. Def wish I knew about the runout beforehand.
Aug 8, 2010

After limping my way up this yesterday - I've changed the rating to 5.9 and PG-13 (at least! and consensus here says PG13 or R). This route would be so much more fun if it were clean/secure.

The rap station now has: 2 pitons, 2 pink tricams and an old U-stem green camalot, with some improved but already aging slingage. If I'd had any energy left, I would have cleaned up & replaced some of the cord, but ... alas.
By digforfire
Jun 27, 2011

Went up this yesterday and had a blast. First pitch is definitely PG13. The rap / belay station at the top of the first pitch got a bit of new cord but the slings on the tri cams could do with replacing. There is a rap station at the top of the second pitch off a tree with webbing and pro cord. You have to angle right when repelling down to the mid rap station so use a prusik .
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The crack on p. 2 is way larger than 3". The anchor atop p. 1 is 1 deteriorating pink tricam (swap it out, tell me, and I'll give you one), decent webbing, and two pins.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jun 17, 2014

Yeah, not 9-, and not G, but really fun climb.

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