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Land of Oz

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I'm Melting Spire 
Lion's Spire 
Witch's Hat 

Land of Oz Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.84984, -103.53626 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 743
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BBQ on Oct 2, 2016  with updates from Jack Waeschle
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land of oz in the distance, photo taken from spire...

Description 

A vast and mysterious little crag, located behind The Bartizan Wall, that is filled with thrills, chills, and lions, tigers and bears, Oh my!

Getting There 

Start on the Cathedral Spires Trail. Walk until you are close enough to gaze at The Bartizan Wall without leaving the trail. When the trail jets to the immediate right for areas such as Spire One, head left. Follow a faint climbers' trail through the trees. Pass The Naked Rib and start heading up the hill. Enter a large meadow. The Land of Oz has is a row of spires that sits two gullies away from The Bartizan Wall. When standing at the bottom of this chain of spires and facing uphill the climber's left has a large meadow while the climber's right will have a wide gully. The Land of Oz has climbs that face the trail which leads to Little Devil's Tower. Other climbs can be found within a corridor to the left of The Naked Rib. An esoteric tunnel in the middle of this formation grants easy access between both sides, in some cases, eliminating the need to walk all the way around.

Climbing Season

For the Custer State Park area.

Weather station 5.1 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Land of Oz

I'm Melting 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  South Dakota : Custer State Park : ... : I'm Melting Spire
Classic five nine climbing that starts on a low angle slab and protects with some smaller gear up to a small roof that forces the climber right into a wide angle, chicken winging crack that soon gives up some of the best face climbing around. Place small gear and clip bolts on a gorgeous face of crystals to a picturesque summit. Feel the burn deep inside your red ruby slippers! This one will not die easily....[more]   Browse More Classics in South Dakota

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