REI Community
Gulley No.1 Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cody's Lament T 
Coin de la Souris T 
First Shot S 
Ground Zero T 
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 
Land Ahoy T 
Lead Poisoning  T 
Life By the Tracks T 
Mice & Men T 
Mouseketeers T 
Part the Sea T 
Rodent Arete T 
Superior Races, The T 

Land Ahoy 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Todd Swain - solo, then placed bolts on rappel
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 9, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: S Matz starts "Land Ahoy"

Description 

This route climbs the face to the right of the right-facing corner of "Life by the Tracks". Looking up one believes it devoid of protection, but the leader climbing with a set of small-to-medium wired stoppers and an open mind will find "just enough" protection.

START: about 20ft Left of Hattie's Garden, which is also about 20 ft right of the "toe" of the slab, directly below a sort of "arrowhead" flake that points downwards. The "point" is about 3 ft off the ground.

P1 - Up past the thin Left-facing flake (gear=nut behind) then up to a 2" horizontal that leads back [Alt] to near the top of the corner. From the top of the corner, climb excellent rock past two bolts (3/8" replacments for Todd's original 1/4") to the two-bolt anchor 'shared' with Hattie's Gargen. 115ft 5.7
Alternative - Climb the thinner face directly above the 2" ledge. Possibly the route of FA. More difficult (5.8 +? R-ish)

P2- (Seldom done, not recently cleaned) Up to the right past a bolt.

Location 

see "START"

Protection 

Small to med. wired stoppers, normal rack.


Photos of Land Ahoy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Arrowhead Flake" points to START of Lan...
BETA PHOTO: "Arrowhead Flake" points to START of Lan...

Comments on Land Ahoy Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About