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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: L. Stuemke
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Lancet is a good route on the left side of The Balcony (the third corridor on the left side of the Vestibule) between Altar Boy on the left and Suspended Animation on the right. Climb on thin edges, crystals, and knobs. Balancy moves between the 1st and 2nd bolts lead to a thin, sharp crux at the 4th bolt. I give it one and a half stars.


6 bolts to two bolt anchor.

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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 27, 2005

For the most part a good climb...But the rock is very sharp and i shreded my finger tips when i climbed it, has lots of potential but is a very balancy climb.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This was one of the more sustained, thin routes we climbed at the Monastery. It felt every bit as sustained as Stolen Land, but maybe my fingertips were pretty raw. There is an off-balance, somewhat desperate reach on this route. The holds on this one are pretty sharp.
By Mike A. Lewis
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 8, 2015

Loved this route, believe it or not. It was a great surprise - maybe that's why I liked it.... It was sustained, and it felt kind of hard to me - I wasn't expecting the deadpoint I tossed on a 5.10. I left 2 carabiners on the anchor, because there were only single rap-links on each anchor bolt.
By Yaroslav Lototskyy
From: Longmont
Sep 12, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I agree with Mike and gave it 3 stars too. I have done 11a to right of it, and I think couples moves at 1-2 bolts on this 10d where harder than anything on 11a. 11a is just more sustained.

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