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Lance 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Albert Ellingwood, 1920s
Page Views: 1,625
Submitted By: Ryan Carlino on Apr 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the beginning of Lance.

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  • Description 

    An early Garden route - surprised not to see it at this site.

    Climb the left side of the large, Scarecrow flake.

    Begin on a rock ledge and get into the right-facing dihedral. Climb up to and around (or over) a bulge. Finish up the chimney to the top of the flake and anchors.

    Location 

    On the west face of Kindergarten (Cathedral). A small trail winds its way to the climb through sticker bushes.

    Protection 

    Nuts and cams should get you up. Shares anchors with Scarecrow.

    Descent 

    Per Rich F.: rappel from the two bolts at the top of the route/top of Scarecrow. I rappeled with a single 70m rope and it was no problem. I doubt a single 60m would reach the ground, but may get close enough to downclimb the last several feet.

    Getting There 

    From the GOG staff June 2017: please approach from the South end of the formation, near the Kindergarten Wall.


    Photos of Lance Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of Lance.  Route outlined in red.
    BETA PHOTO: Another shot of Lance. Route outlined in red.
    Rock Climbing Photo: West Face of Kindergarten (Cathedral) Rock with 3 ...
    BETA PHOTO: West Face of Kindergarten (Cathedral) Rock with 3 ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Side view of Lance.  Beginning is noted.  First pi...
    BETA PHOTO: Side view of Lance. Beginning is noted. First pi...

    Comments on Lance Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Rich F.
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Nov 8, 2008
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Climbed this with my son, Danny, today. Enjoyed the route a lot for a 5.6. The route calls for a little face climbing and some chimney/offwidth climbing. It protects well with small to medium cams. This route has a couple of places where it makes you think about the best way up -- like just below the large flake overhang near the start of the route. Fun route, and I don't think it gets much traffic.

    Descent -- rappeled from the two bolts at the top of the route/top of scarecrow. I rappeled with a single 70m rope and it was no problem. I doubt a single 60m would reach the ground, but may get close enough to downclimb the last several feet.
    By Unassigned User
    May 20, 2009

    Led today with Rich. A fun climb that doesn't look like it gets much traffic. An early move around an overhanging flake is the crux, followed by a fun chimney mid section and easy scramble at the top. Protects well with a standard rack. I should have used a sling below the crux and belayed Rich up just above the crux as our rope got jammed. Watch out for lots of loose crap, especially in the chimney. I pulled off a hand hold. Used most of my new 70m rope for the fun near-vertical rappel on two old but solid bolts.
    By Andito
    From: Colorado Springs
    Jun 14, 2010

    The climbing and protection over the bulge at the beginning were fantastic. Protection in the chimney was dicey at best. I couldn't quite plug a number five cam, and the other placements I had were in questionable rock or shallow cracks. In short, be prepared to more or less solo the chimney portion as a leader. I followed Dave G's advice and belayed my two followers after the crux. There is a good ledge and good protection for that. Rope drag would have definitely been an issue if I'd have waited to belay from the top.
    The followers told me the face climbing on the ridge to the left of the chimney was far more aesthetic than my grunt up the chimney.
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jan 7, 2011

    I also recommend the intermediate belay above the crux; not only is rope drag a concern but I know from doing Sword in the Stone a few days earlier that communication can be very difficult from top to bottom and vice versa.

    There is some protection at the bottom of the chimney sections but not past that. Not to worry, these two sections are short and easy.

    To find the rap anchor: once you get above the last chimney, into the bushes, look to your left for a 6' pinnacle. Go through the notch on the far side of the pinnacle (north side) onto a big ledge. The anchor is on the face to your right.

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