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Lamplighter T 
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Lamplighter 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Reg Williams et al, 1965
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Apr 12, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Grade 14 my ass

Description 

Head up to the backside (south) of the Pharos. Locate the obvious right and upwards trending ramp below a big gray overhang. Start by stepping up some blocks to a ledge a few meters above the ground. Make easy moves along the ramp, under the overhang, then back left to belay on top of it.

Move upwards, clip the peg, then pull a tricky move to a ledge up and right. Continue in this same right-trending direction to an airy traverse. Protect where you can, swallow your pride, and make the move. But it's far from over. Move up into the chimney, completely change your style, and grunt your way upwards. Now below the obvious choss-filled chimney, build a belay.

Move up the outside of the chimney, sacrificing style for upwards progression. Scramble easily to the cave below the roof. As intimidating as it may be, it goes easily with your back against the wall and good gear in the crack. Face holds to the bolt anchor (behind you).

Descend with two 50m ropes or two rappels. Second anchor is 15m down on climber's left.

Location 

Backside of the Pharos

Protection 

Standard light rack (with 2-3" gear)


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