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Lakeshore Loon S 

Lakeshore Loon 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FA: James Garrett, FFA: Maloney, Rosenthal and Garrett, 1997
Season: winter,spring or fall
Page Views: 956
Submitted By: tenesmus on Feb 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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pulling through lakeshore loon


AKA: Destination Unknown. This is a really fun clip-up with varied, high quality climbing on edges and slopers. P1 starts with clipping a bolt and then some sinker hand jams for a few moves to gain a small bulge. Traverse left and onto the arete with a fun, defined crux. You can combine P1 with P2, which is bouldery, easy .10 slab and edge climbing up to a nice belay ledge that gets late afternoon shade. P3 has tightly spaced bolts in a shallow dihedral to an arete with a killer softball sloper. This pitch is fun, hard .10 insecurity way off the deck. The first and last pitch are really fun and the rock is bomber.


Starts the bottom of the Syringe just left of the gully separating it from the Severity Butress.


Bolts mixed with lots of pika hangers. I think we had about 16 draws and a few of those were long runners. P1 anchors are tat but you can rap from the bottom of P3 with a 70m rope.

Photos of Lakeshore Loon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: grk stewing for the OS on the upper pitch minihedr...
grk stewing for the OS on the upper pitch minihedr...
Rock Climbing Photo: grk pulling the crux of P1
grk pulling the crux of P1

Comments on Lakeshore Loon Add Comment
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By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Jan 26, 2015

The Pika hangers could use an upgrade. Not sure if holds have broken off, but the last pitch felt the hardest by far on the route.
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 22, 2016

Can link 1-2, or 2-3. The bulge on p1 feels committing. p2 is much easier than the others, but has some substantial runouts on easier terrain (hard moves are well protected though) The route is great, I do it almost every time I go to ibex.

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