Lake Willoughby Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: South-west side of Mt. Pisgah at Lake Willoughby. ...
The largest concentration of hard ice routes in the Northeast (if not continental US). Several committing multipitch grade IV WI5s and harder. Home to the east coast's first bonafide WI6 ice climb: Call of the Wild II WI6 which was first freed by Jim Shimberg in March of 1996.
Ice Climbing conditions on NEIce: iceclimbingforums.com/forumdis...
Route 5A about 15 miles North of Lyndonville, VT. Park below the routes and hike in (30-60 minutes).
200km, 2:15 On Google maps
- Head south-east on Autoroute 15 S and take Champlain Bridge
- Continue onto Autoroute 10 E, About 1 hour 11 mins, go 114 km
- Take exit 121 to merge onto Autoroute 55 S toward Coaticook/Stanstead/Magog/Vermont/Autoroute 91
Entering United States (Vermont), About 21 mins, go 34.8 km
- Continue onto I-91 S, About 15 mins, go 25.4 km
- Take exit 26 for VT-58/US-5 toward Irasburg/Orleans, About 1 min, go 400 m
- Turn left onto US-5 S/VT-58 E
Continue to follow VT-58 E, About 1 min, go 1.2 km
- Slight right onto Church St go 300 m, Continue onto East St go 130 m
- Slight right onto VT-58 E/Evansville Rd/Willoughby Ave,
Continue to follow VT-58 E/Evansville Rd, About 9 mins, go 10.2 km
- Slight right onto VT-5A S/Willoughby Lk Rd
Continue to follow VT-5A S
Lodging and dinning
You'll find plenty of choices within 20 minutes of the cliffs, south in Burke, Lyndon and Lyndonville, and a couple places west near Barton.
Weather station 5.5 miles from here
19 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lake Willoughby
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lake Willoughby
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lake Willoughby:
Featured Route For Lake Willoughby
: *Vermont Ice Climbing
: ... : Mount Pisgah
A classic long ice climb with alpine character at Willoughby. Last Gentleman climbs a huge, over 100 foot-wide ice flow at the back of the Last Gentleman Amphitheater. Usually done in 4 pitches but that can vary depending on the amount of meandering dictated by ice conditions. The below pitch-by-pitch break down is only approximate and describes how we did it on that particular day.Pitch 1: Traverse the left-leaning ramp past the bolt to the ledge at the bottom of a vertical flow...[more] Browse More Classics in Vermont
By Mike Willig
Jan 14, 2014
I would argue that it is the largest collection of hard ice in the US.