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Lake Willoughby

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Mount Hor 
Mount Pisgah 
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From MP's sister site:

Lake Willoughby Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.74185, -72.04768 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,092
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luc-514 on Nov 27, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

33°
Wednesday

43° | 34°
Thursday

49° | 33°
Friday

45° | 39°
Saturday

51° | 28°
Sunday

30° | 14°
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BETA PHOTO: South-west side of Mt. Pisgah at Lake Willoughby. ...

Seasonal Raptor Closures 2016 For access issues: please review cragvt.org MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The largest concentration of hard ice routes in the Northeast (if not continental US). Several committing multipitch grade IV WI5s and harder. Home to the east coast's first bonafide WI6 ice climb: Call of the Wild II WI6 which was first freed by Jim Shimberg in March of 1996.

Ice Climbing conditions on NEIce:
iceclimbingforums.com/forumdis...

Getting There 

Route 5A about 15 miles North of Lyndonville, VT. Park below the routes and hike in (30-60 minutes).

From Montreal:
200km, 2:15
On Google maps
  • Head south-east on Autoroute 15 S and take Champlain Bridge
  • Continue onto Autoroute 10 E, About 1 hour 11 mins, go 114 km
  • Take exit 121 to merge onto Autoroute 55 S toward Coaticook/Stanstead/Magog/Vermont/Autoroute 91
Entering United States (Vermont), About 21 mins, go 34.8 km
  • Continue onto I-91 S, About 15 mins, go 25.4 km
  • Take exit 26 for VT-58/US-5 toward Irasburg/Orleans, About 1 min, go 400 m
  • Turn left onto US-5 S/VT-58 E
Continue to follow VT-58 E, About 1 min, go 1.2 km
  • Slight right onto Church St go 300 m, Continue onto East St go 130 m
  • Slight right onto VT-58 E/Evansville Rd/Willoughby Ave,
Continue to follow VT-58 E/Evansville Rd, About 9 mins, go 10.2 km
  • Slight right onto VT-5A S/Willoughby Lk Rd
Continue to follow VT-5A S

Lodging and dinning 

You'll find plenty of choices within 20 minutes of the cliffs, south in Burke, Lyndon and Lyndonville, and a couple places west near Barton.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lake Willoughby

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lake Willoughby:
Last Gentleman   WI5     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 500'   Mount Pisgah
Crazy Diamond   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Mount Pisgah
Mindbender   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 225'   Mount Pisgah
The Tablets Left   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Mount Pisgah
Glass Menagerie   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Mount Pisgah
Twenty Below Zero gully   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Mount Pisgah
The Promenade   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400'   Mount Pisgah
Float like a butterfly(land like a tomato)   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches   Mount Pisgah
Renormalization   WI4     Trad, Ice, 210'   Mount Pisgah
Plug and Chug   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 210'   Mount Pisgah
The Tablets Center   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Mount Pisgah
The Tablets Right   WI2-3     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Mount Pisgah
Extensive Homology   WI5 PG13     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Mount Pisgah
Woober Goober Gully   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Mount Hor
Zephyr   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI3+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Mount Pisgah
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lake Willoughby

Featured Route For Lake Willoughby
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay at the end of the 2nd pitch. Pat McCarthy, 2...

Last Gentleman WI5  Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : ... : Mount Pisgah
A classic long ice climb with alpine character at Willoughby. Last Gentleman climbs a huge, over 100 foot-wide ice flow at the back of the Last Gentleman Amphitheater. Usually done in 4 pitches but that can vary depending on the amount of meandering dictated by ice conditions. The below pitch-by-pitch break down is only approximate and describes how we did it on that particular day.Pitch 1: Traverse the left-leaning ramp past the bolt to the ledge at the bottom of a vertical flow...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

Photos of Lake Willoughby Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another fine day at the Lake
Another fine day at the Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Willoughby's black ice on a low snow year, 2/19/16...
Willoughby's black ice on a low snow year, 2/19/16...

Comments on Lake Willoughby Add Comment
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By Mike Willig
Jan 14, 2014
I would argue that it is the largest collection of hard ice in the US.