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Lake Whitney (DWS)

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Carp Wall 
Corral, The 
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Overhang, The 
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Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Cedar Brake Outer Loop
A scenic trail around the perimeter of the park. Near Glen Rose, Texas
Dinosaur Valley State Park Tour
This is a great route that gives you a little bit of everything the terrain has to offer. Near Glen Rose, Texas
Black-Capped Vireo Trail
A mix of doubletrack and singletrack trail winding through the Cedars, hard packed dirt and rock. Near Glen Rose, Texas
Inner Loop
This is a fairly easy, tight and twisting ride mostly under oaks and cedars. Near Cleburne, Texas
Limestone Ridge Trail
A tight, twisty trail mostly in the shade with a few steep punchy climbs and quick loose downhills Near Cleburne, Texas
Fossil Ridge Trail
A mix of dirt, rock slabs, drops, creek crossings, and climbs that will test your skill and fitness. Near Pecan Plantation, Texas
From MP's sister site:

Lake Whitney (DWS) Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 541'
Location: 31.8649, -97.3751 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,566
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Zach Wahrer on Mar 27, 2011
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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High on Nikki's Flake.


Deep water soloing and water bouldering! Great for the Texas heat! Some very good walls can be even accessed without a boat, although having a boat makes the experience much more enjoyable. Make sure you check the landings, especially if the water level is low! Some of the rock can be chossy, test your holds before committing.

Grades and route length can vary due to water level, so the listed grade and height is more of an approximation then anything else.

If you don't have a real boat, the best system I've found is to get an inflatable raft, hike in with it in a backpack and then blow it up with a hand pump once you get near the walls. This saves you from having to do some very sketchy hiking (maybe 4th class for some people?) while carrying an unwieldy inflated boat. It is also alot easier to start most of the climbs from an inflatable boat instead of an inner tube or the like.

If you decide to use an inflatable raft (very convenient and recommended unless you have a real boat), make sure you take enough life preservers for everyone in the boat because it is common to have the lake patrol come check you while on the water.

Getting There 

For the areas that can be reached by hiking, park at the Soldiers Bluff park (free) off of Hwy 22, next to the dam.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 1.1 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lake Whitney (DWS)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lake Whitney (DWS):
Gettin' High   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 100'   The Corral
Nikki's Flake   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 30'   The Corral
Pedro, Paddle Harder!   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 30'   The Corral
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lake Whitney (DWS)

Featured Route For Lake Whitney (DWS)
Rock Climbing Photo: The middle of the problem

Stalactite Project V9 7C  Texas : Lake Whitney (DWS) : The Overhang
Really cool problem that moves through big stalactites....[more]   Browse More Classics in Texas

Comments on Lake Whitney (DWS) Add Comment
Show which comments
By DGraham
From: Dallas
Jul 28, 2014
For us Texans who don't have many options sometimes you gotta take what ya got. If you've always wanted to go DWS but can't afford a trip to Spain this is a decent alternative. The rock may be the most flimsy thing you've seen since your grandma waved bye, but it's what we got. Most places have surprisingly deep landings and the rock gets better as you go up. There is more potential for development out here BUT (and that's a big butt) often finding a way to get out of your boat and on the rock may be the hardest part of the route since the bottom 5 feet is usually blank choss. Not to mention, if you don't own a motorboat it may take some time to seek out new stuff (takes a while to get around in an inflatable raft). no shade out here so bring a sombrero.
By 936Brian
From: Austin, Texas
Sep 30, 2014
Amazing free camping at Soldiers Bluff and Walling Bend that is rarely ever crowded. Walling Bend is more scenic and quitter but further away from most of the DWS.

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