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Lake Mead Buttress
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Lake Mead Buttress Original Route T 

Lake Mead Buttress Original Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 800', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Dan Briey, Andrew Fulton, March 1997
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: DesertDan on Feb 13, 2017

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Just to the right of the prow is a crack/seam system that starts from a horizontal crack 20' off the ground. There's a baby angle piton in the horizontal where the seam starts, which is also the first piece of protection. Climb this for a hundred feet or so until easier climbing leads left onto the shallow prow. This is the hardest and most committing pitch of the route, the rest of the pitches are 5.8 or less. Follow the prow, sometimes jogging left, to the top. We did this in four pitches but it can be broken up into more. All of the belays have a decent ledge and the multitude of crack/seam systems offer more than one way to the next belay, so choose carefully. The climbing is adventurous with some run outs and a fair amount loose rock spread out over the solid stuff.


Start just right of the prow.


Double rack up to #3, small cams, small stoppers, hammer, knife blade pitons, and a baby angle or two.

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