REI Community
search
Lake Lincoln

Select Area...
Across the Dam 
Cove, The 
Dam Boulders 
Green Peninsula at Lincoln Lake 
Ivory Coast Wall 
Johnny the Boy Wall 
Mad Max Wall 
North Side 
South Side 
South(East)Side Bouldering 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Creek Run
Travel back into the quiet, relaxing cove of the Brushy Creek along the lake. Near Sallisaw, Oklahoma
From MP's sister site:

Lake Lincoln Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,200'
Location: 35.9983, -94.427 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,089
Administrators: TylerKC, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: CJ Gates on Aug 18, 2008
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Lake Lincoln, the place of Hard Sends

Description 

This little crag sits about 30-40 minutes west of Fayetteville. It is dark and dirty but there are some great climbs here. Total roped climbs number around 40 or so. The climbing ranges from easy 5.4 to hard 5.13 with (I think) at least one route needing a FFA that is supposedly hard 5.13. There is also some bouldering to be found and some that is still to be or in process of being developed.

Getting There 

There are several ways to get there. I will give one from Fayetteville: Take Hwy 16 west out of Fayetteville. Drive past Lake Weddington another 5-10 miles. In a very sharp right hand bend on Hwy 16 you will take a left on N. Jackson Hwy or Hwy 669 heading south. Follow this road until you come up to Lake Lincoln on your left. Turn left down a little dirt road and park in the parking area that is on your right. You can also cross the creek and park there as well. You can also see the map coordinates attached here. This road (Hwy 669) will take you all the way in to the town of Lincoln if you go too far.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

74 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',6],['5.9',10],['5.10',20],['5.11',15],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lake Lincoln

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lake Lincoln:
Triple Token   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 40'   North Side : Copperhead Wall
Bum Diggity   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Johnny the Boy Wall
Johnny the Boy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Johnny the Boy Wall
Boothe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Johnny the Boy Wall
The Quest for the Sticky Stuff   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   North Side : Dead Man's Wall
Arachnophobia    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 35'   North Side : 13 Wall
1865   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Ivory Coast Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lake Lincoln

Featured Route For Lake Lincoln
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin goes for the clip before he commits to pulli...

Steeple Chase 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Arkansas : Lake Lincoln : Ivory Coast Wall
Start by gaining a low ledge that offers a good rest before you tackle the roof. Climb up to the roof and clip the permadraw hanging from the ceiling before you reach around the roof to the nice ledge. Throw a heel hook and reach for a sharp edge that can be used to pull roof. The crux is definitely holding on long enough to get over the roof. Hang on, you have a few more pumpy moves on the face before you clip the anchors...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arkansas

Photos of Lake Lincoln Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Map for the areas in Lincoln lake
BETA PHOTO: Map for the areas in Lincoln lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Lincoln Lake
Lincoln Lake

Comments on Lake Lincoln Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Flynn
From: United States
Aug 8, 2013
I remember one year the lake swelled with spring run-off and the only access as to rap from the top of the cliffs and climb back out, the trail was completely covered in water 3 feet deep! My friend Josh Eldridge took his girlfriend in his canoe and I suggested he climb from the boat, but he had other things in mind...
By Luc Ried
From: Batesville, AR
May 24, 2015
Does anyone know where the hard 5.13 project is here?
By JonnyGreenlee Greenlee
From: Evergreen, CO
Jul 18, 2015
I don't think its a project anymore, but I am assuming they are talking about this route as the hard 13.

rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...
By Gary Patrick
From: Cordova, TN
Mar 28, 2016
I was there recently climbing and got on three different routes, which, upon arriving at the top found the anchors to be missing. One had only two bolts sticking out, one had one bolt missing the anchor, and one had nuts and bolts but no hanger. Try and check to be sure anchors are there. There seem to be plenty of trees for anchors.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About