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View looking up at the start of the pitch from the...
The final pitch of this route is the only one that really ever gets done, so that's what I'm describing here, beginning on the GT Ledge. It's a good option for topping out if High E
is crowded. Also, it's a logical finish to Ridicullissima
Start at a crack and get some gear in above you before you pull up on the upper face. The crux of this route comes at you not long after you gain the face, but there are options for gear all through this section. It can be a bit pumpy through this section.
Climb mostly straight up. When you near the top of the cliff, skirt just left of a tree (a bit awkward) then jog right a few feet near the very top. There used to be a great tree right at the top, but it's pretty dead now (2015). The best option is probably using the High E rap station as an anchor. If you do, try to use it in such a way that you don't block others from getting on rappel safely.
Info for the first pitch of this climb can be found in the guidebook. It's rated 5.10, but it's not in the same league as its classic neighbors to the left. Climb one of those instead.
The route (as described here) starts from the GT ledge. It's located about 12 feet right of the final pitch of Directissima
, at a weakness in the roof above. It's about 2/3 of the way from the arete to the rap station. There's a spot for a bomber yellow C4 directly under the route.
Pro is good throughout the route, but the rock quality leaves a little bit to be desired. Not dangerous though.
Start the climb at the crack shown in the middle o...
By Dana Bartlett
Nov 15, 2015
The first pitch is not of the quality of Directississima or Ridiculissima, but I have done it several times and it is worth at least two stars.