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Lakatakissima 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jack Mileski and Todd Ritter
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: John Gassel on Sep 4, 2015  with updates from SethG

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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View looking up at the start of the pitch from the...

Description 

The first pitch gets no stars in the guidebook (and isn't included in the Gunks App) but it is excellent! It features the same kind of steep climbing as Doubleissima and Ridicullissima. Watch out for loose rock; there is a little bit, but it is easily avoided.

Even if you get to the GT from a neighboring route, the final 5.8 pitch of this route is a good option for topping out if High E is crowded. Also, it's a logical finish to Ridicullissima or Directississima.

P1 (5.10b): Start as for Doubleissima, up the right-hand 5.8 crack for about 40 feet to a ledge. Then move right about three feet to a small tree and a vertical crack system. Go pretty much straight up the steep face until you reach the roof. The guidebook instructs you to step left and join Doubleissima for a few feet below the roof, but I found this was not necessary. I was able to keep the line completely independent of Doubleissima. Once at the roof, go through the obvious notch about 5 feet to the right of where Doubleissima breaks the roof (crux, 5.10b). Continue straight up the juggy, steep face (5.8) to the GT Ledge.

P2 (5.8): From the GT, start at a crack and get some gear in above you before you pull up on the upper face. The crux of this route comes at you not long after you gain the face, but there are options for gear all through this section. It can be a bit pumpy through this section. Climb mostly straight up. When you near the top of the cliff, skirt just left of a tree (a bit awkward) then jog right a few feet near the very top. There used to be a great tree right at the top, but it's pretty dead now (2015). The best option is probably using the High E rap station as an anchor. If you do, try to use it in such a way that you don't block others from getting on rappel safely.

Location 

P1: Start as for Doubleissima.

The pitch above the GT ledge is located about 12 feet right of the final pitch of Directissima, at a weakness in the roof above. It's about 2/3 of the way from the arete to the rap station. There's a spot for a bomber yellow C4 directly under the route.

Protection 

Pro is good throughout the route, but the rock quality leaves a little bit to be desired. Not dangerous though.


Photos of Lakatakissima Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start the climb at the crack shown in the middle o...
Start the climb at the crack shown in the middle o...

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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Nov 15, 2015

The first pitch is not of the quality of Directississima or Ridiculissima, but I have done it several times and it is worth at least two stars.
By SethG
Apr 8, 2017

As usual, Dana knows what he's talking about. I did pitch one of Lakatakissima (5.10b) today, and I thought it was great! Very similar in style to the other climbs on this wall. Good steep climbing followed by an awesome roof problem. I have submitted a description of pitch one to improve this page.

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