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Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) T 
Heavy Weather T 
Ladybug S 
Peregrination T 
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn T 

Ladybug 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eli Worley 2007
Page Views: 198
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 30, 2015

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  • Description 

    Face climb up to the first bolt in the dark streak and follow more bolts up through two tricky bulges to a stance below the first headwall. Trend up and left through underclings and a move back right and up to a stance. Move up and left to a stark crux on the upper grey headwall and tightly bolted climbing. Easier climbing past the final couple bolts leads to a ledge and a fixed anchor.
    Note: You'll want to use long draws on the headwall to try and limit the rope drag as you transition from slab to vertical. As well a couple bolts are placed out of the fall line for the rope so longer draws will help reduce drag. Likewise, the final headwall is tightly bolted but the bolt line wanders and a couple key extensions will make your life in the crux easier.

    Location 

    Start: 75 ft right of Sling the Horn. It is probably best to trend up and right on a narrow vegetated bench to a small stance below the dark streak about 25 feet below the first bolt. The belayer can anchor off a small tree here and this avoids a unpleasant vegetated start.
    Descent: Rap with two ropes

    Protection 

    15 draws 4-6 of which should be long/extendable draws.
    Two bolt anchor


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