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Ladybug Direct T 
Southeast Buttress T 

Ladybug Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Aaron Henriquez & Rachel Saggau
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Aaron Henriquez on Jul 5, 2017

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P1.

Description 

This is a more direct variation to pitch 3 of Southeast Buttress.

P1: climb a left-angling crack to a ledge. Traverse left to base of finger crack, and build an anchor.

P2: climb left angling finger crack approximately 15 feet up to place gear, then traverse 15 feet left on face holds. Then climb up good holds, and begin to climb up and right towards the main crack. Use thin finger pocket to reach for top of crack (the crux) with little to no gear (a 5.9 R/X rated move). Top out, and finish the regular route of Southeast Buttress.

Note: this is still a very uncleaned line. Light choss and loose rock are still very prevalent. A bolt or two on pitch 2 would make the climb a lot more fun and much safer.

Location 

This is near the base of Haimovi Tower (pitch 3).

Protection 

P1: hand-sized gear. We climbed both pitches using a single rack and a nut set.

P2: a few finger-sized pieces, it has R/X rated fall potential.


Photos of Ladybug Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta.
BETA PHOTO: Beta.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta.
Beta.
Rock Climbing Photo: The P2 topout.
The P2 topout.

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