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Lady Boys 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vince Bates & Eric Deschamps
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,120
Submitted By: Eric D on Aug 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Lady boys is full of surprises. From the anchor of Valley Girls, climb up and right to a hand crack in the obvious dihedral to the ledge. Take the right crack of the two cracks to another small ledge. If you have a #3 and #4 left, keep going. Otherwise stop your pitch here and anchor with 2 .75s and a nut; you'll then do a short second pitch.


Starts at the top of the route Valley Girls. To descend, walk to and rap King Snake.
It's questionable whether or not you can rap King Snake with one 60m. We swung over to the ledge left of King Snake where there is a middway anchor.


A couple of micro-cams, a double set .5 to #2, single #3 and #4, and medium to large nuts. A second #3 and #4 will allow you to do this in one pitch instead of two.

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By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I think this climb should come with a PG13 warning. Not a Sedona PG13, but for the Winslow wall area is might be for now. It is an ok climb, but there is still a lot of loose and questionable rock. Climb cautiously because you will likely be shedding off some rock possibly onto your belayer and also down into the popular shady grove area where lots of people hang out.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Nov 16, 2015

I agree with toast. The climbing is decent but this was put up ground up and so didn't get the cleaning it should have. Don't climb this while someone is at the base.

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