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Ladies First 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,619
Submitted By: Mike Sokoloff on Mar 13, 2002

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Start of the thin crack crux of Ladies First.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


From the end of the approach trail, head right up the hill until you see an obvious slot with a finger crack inside. There is a plaque at the base with the name. The 200 Select Indian Creek guidebook lists this as unnamed 5.10a fingers. A really fun, not too strenuous corner which gives one the option to utilize jamming, stemming, and laybacking techniques. It goes through a range of sizes so one does not need a huge number of any one size cam. The crux comes at the bottom where the crack is thin and requires thin (#0 TCU) protection. This climb makes a great "warmup" for some of this wall's more strenuous routes.


Doubles set of cams including TCUs down to #0. There is no wide stuff on this route.

Photos of Ladies First Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: KG topping out on Ladies first
KG topping out on Ladies first
Rock Climbing Photo: Garrett Gillest starting up "Ladies First&quo...
Garrett Gillest starting up "Ladies First&quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steven rehearsing Ladies First
Steven rehearsing Ladies First

Comments on Ladies First Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Enjoyable route, but it is trickier than it looks - though still fair for the grade (10-). The crux is down low passing an awkward sloping ledge. Bring small cams from green to red alien, 2-3 #2 camelots, 2-3 #1 camelots, #0.75 camelot, and one bigger piece (#3 or #3.5 camelot) for the top.
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The name may indicate easy money! The crux is low, top of thin section where the route ledges out. Well worth climbing if visiting OMW.
(10a/b is our grade)
By mike keegan
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 18, 2010

awesome photo KG! This route is sweet! Tough crux down low, gravy from there, just fun hand jams all the way to the top.
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Apr 9, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Small pro at crux, double or triple up! I used TCU purple and grey and a blue alien before pulling past the move.

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