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Moving into final crux on Lacuna
Lacuna climbs a colorful face with a sawtooth seam just to climbers right of Rumbleseat. The climbing fits in nicely with its classic neighbors to the left.
A slightly intimidating unprotected start leads you into engaging mixed crack and face climbing on interesting rock. Climb up into the head wall placing small cams and set up for the crux bouldery sections ahead. Make several delicate moves through a mail slot and to a wobble block. Keep calm and carry on through easier face climbing while placing specific gear to the top.
Although only slightly more difficult than Rumbleseat but less sustained than Shotgun, the crux sections are better protected with small cams. Just might be the perfect mental warm-up for Rumbleseat. PG rating because of the unprotected start moves and delicate finish above particular gear.
Lacuna starts on a small broken ledge next to a big boulder 20' right of Rumbleseat. Rap down to ledge or scramble to from Shotgun rappel.
Gear used in order on FA:
.4 C4 12" runner
Red #1 C3
Green #0 C3
Purple #00 C3 x2
Grey #000 C3 x2
#6 BD nut
J.Snyder on FA of Lacuna 35mm by T.Hastie
By Casey Niggemyer
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Aug 27, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I was able to get in a good high piece (.4 BD i think) to protect the starting moves. Sliders were nice to have to protect the upper section after the crux. Really fun line! thanks for finding this one Jeff