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Lacto Mangulation 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jorma Hayes, 1 April 1995
Page Views: 4,802
Submitted By: Darin Powell on Apr 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (176)
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BETA PHOTO: Pushing through the crux above the last bolt (3 of...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Lacto Mangulation is the first route left of Top Forty and the last route before School Room #2. It starts on a small face for about 20 feet (5.6) to a ledge and then follows a right facing dihedral that starts as a fist crack and ends up as a small finger crack. The last 8 feet is the crux. Rap from slung anchors. Can be top roped from School Room #2.

    Protection 

    There are two drilled angles and one bolt leading to sling anchors, a couple of larger cams(#4) could be used to protect a longer fall between the second and third bolts but not necessary.


    Photos of Lacto Mangulation Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux can also be done as a cool stem problem.
    The crux can also be done as a cool stem problem.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Robinson
    Mike Robinson
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Jones reaches for a hand jam on top rope nea...
    Jason Jones reaches for a hand jam on top rope nea...

    Comments on Lacto Mangulation Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jonathan Amburgey
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Nov 23, 2008

    Some beta: The route has 3 bolts that lead to a two-bolt anchor (one with a rappel ring; the other linked chain). The crux is the last 8 feet or so above the last bolt to the anchors. Though I didn't use any pro, a piece in the upper section between the last bolt and anchors might be warranted if you're feeling less-than-confident using tiny finger jams. Solid feet and creative hand-work are needed.

    Good route; I really enjoyed it.
    By CanDillo
    From: The Great State -Colorado
    Oct 28, 2009

    Fun route. Good easy climbing leads to the crux which is strenous due to lack of soild feet on small tips fingers. Good warm up for some of the other routes on Wall Street.
    By Tate
    From: Durango CO
    Mar 17, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Bring a #3 c4 or even a #4 friend to protect from ledge fall before the last bolt.
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    A 4 is all you need.
    By Austin Martin
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Oct 29, 2016

    ^ Of course you can do without the gear entirely (as on any climb), but most people will want at the very least 4 quickdraws and a large cam (BD#4-6) for between bolts 3 and 4 to make this a "safe" lead. One could easily bring more gear to protect the climb further. Bolted anchor. A rather exciting climb!

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